12-16-2024 Ag News

Reduce stress with good record keeping

Record keeping may not be every farmer’s favorite activity, and probably not the reason someone chooses farming as a career. With time, patience and a commitment to get it done, it can make your financial life a lot less stressful.

Record keeping doesn’t have to be difficult. It’s a way to keep track of things about your operation that will help you make better long-term decisions. You can use a ledger book or a computer—whatever helps you maintain consistency. Software programs can make your data more meaningful.

Software has become more user-friendly over time, and while it may not make the record keeping process fun, it could help you see the overall picture of your operation. Some programs track purchases and how you use each item on a particular enterprise or field. You’ll be able to keep track of repair and maintenance records for specific farm equipment and produce balance sheets, income statements and cash flow budgets.

For many livestock operations, a good time to start keeping records is when the veterinarian comes to check your animals. Vets usually charge per head, so that data can help you develop a list of animals that need attention. You can use the same data to develop health histories of your animals, which will lead to more informed exams and diagnosis in the future.

Make record keeping a team effort for your family. Sit down and work on the records and budget together. Perhaps one person can read the information while another person types it into the software program or writes it in the ledger book. Also, if you do a little bit each day and don’t save it all up for the end of the year, you won’t become overwhelmed.

If you’ve done the work throughout the year, year-end procedures can feel more satisfying. You can generate year-end reports with a few simple clicks and not have to sort through stacks of bills lying around the home or office.

The University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, Food and Environment’s Department of Agricultural Economics has several tools online that could help with budgeting and decision making. Visit http://www.uky.edu/Ag/AgEcon/extbudgets.php to see what is available.

Sources: Steve Isaacs, UK Extension Agricultural Economist.

FARM RECORD BOOKS AVAILABLE

For many years, the UK College of Agriculture has printed and made available an easy to keep but effective farm record book for farmers. We have a supply of the record books in the Montgomery County Extension Office.

 

Eight reasons to test your soil

 

Soil testing can tell you many things about your soil that can help you make informed decisions about fertilizer application, site selection for crops and so much more. It is an essential part of a successful agriculture or horticulture enterprise. Home gardens and lawns can also greatly benefit from soil testing.

With the wet pattern Kentucky has been in over the past year, soil testing is paramount to having a quality hay supply for next winter.

There’s really no reason not to test your soil since your local office of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service makes it simple. So, let’s get to it. Why should you test your soil?

1. Know the pH level of your soil. Soil experts will make different recommendations depending on the acidity or alkalinity of your soil and your intended use.
2. Save time and money. Having the proper levels of soil nutrients will help maximize economic yields. Soil testing also reduces the chance of overapplying and over purchasing fertilizers.
3. It’s good for the environment. Soil testing results in a more accurate application of fertilizers and that ultimately reduces runoff into waterways.
4. They are not expensive. Each county office may charge a nominal fee to cover soil analysis costs.
5. It is easy. Taking samples doesn’t take a lot of time or skill, and your county agents can help you along the way.
6. Find out the fertility level of the soil. You gain knowledge about the soil condition and can make informed decisions about how to improve it.
7. Follow soil changes over time. Follow how conditions like drought, prolonged wet periods and other weather scenarios affect the soil.
8. Identify problem areas in your field or garden.

You’ll need to take different samples for various land uses such as agricultural, fields, lawns, gardens, fruit trees, shrubs and flowers because they all have distinct fertility and pH requirements.

For more information about soil testing, contact the Montgomery County Cooperative Extension Service. Source: Frank Sikora, UK Soil Testing Coordinator

 

 

12-09-2024 Ag News

BEEF CATTLE THOUGHTS

 

Following is information for beef producers on tasks that should be addressed this month: Body condition is important, plan an adequate winter program for cows to be at least body condition score 5 (carrying enough flesh to cover the ribs) before the calving and breeding season.  This will help them to breed early in the spring.  Thin cows should be fed to regain body condition prior to winter.  Don’t let cows lose weight/condition; Divide the herd into groups for winter feeding------weaned heifer calves, first-calf heifers, second-calvers and thin mature cows,  the remainder of the dry cows which are in good body condition, and  herd sires.

Begin feeding the lowest quality forage to dry cows which are in good condition during early winter and save the best hay for calving time or for weaned calves; Be sure that weaned heifer calves are on a feeding program which will enable them be at 65% of their mature weight before the start of the breeding season.  Rations should be balanced to achieve gains sufficient to get heifers from their current weight to that “target” weight; Order and number eartags for next year’s calf crop this winter.  It is also a good time to catch up on freeze branding and replacing lost eartags;  

For the fall calving herd: Get breeding supplies together, if using estrous synchronization and/or A.I.; Have Breeding Soundness Evaluation (BSE) performed on bulls (even if you used them this spring).  Observe performance of bulls during breeding season.  Watch cows for return to estrus, if you see several in heat, try to determine the cause and consider changing bulls; The fall breeding season starts.  Breeding can best be accomplished on stockpiled fescue pasture; otherwise, cows with calves should be fed 25-30 pounds of good quality hay or its equivalent.  Supplement with grain, if needed, and minimize hay waste.  Cows shouldn’t be allowed to lose body condition.

In general, Complete soil testing pasture to check for fertility and pH; Consider putting down geotextile fabric and covering with gravel in feeding areas before you begin hay feeding to minimize waste of expensive hay.

 

FARM RECORD BOOKS AVAILABLE

 

For many years, the UK College of Agriculture has printed and made available an easy to keep but effective farm record book for farmers. We have a supply of the record books in the Montgomery County Extension Office.

 

Forage Quality Could Impact Cow Performance

 

The wet spring this year resulted in several acres of hay that were cut and baled late.  This can be problematic since much of our hay is derived from fescue and fescue-legume mix stands.  The later the hay harvest, the more the plants advance in maturity from a vegetative stage, which is all leaf, to an advanced reproductive stage when the seeds are developed. 

The ideal time to harvest cool-season grass for hay from a yield and quality perspective is from boot stage (i.e. just prior to the flower emerging from the stem) to early flowering.  Due to the excessive precipitation received this year, many fields were cut beyond this ideal time frame.  Hay that was in the soft dough to fully ripened seed stage was harvested from several fields.  The quality of hay at these later stages of maturity poses problems for our beef cattle, especially those with high nutritional needs such as lactating cows and growing calves.

Late cut hay is lower in protein and is less digestible leading to less energy available to the animal.  The low protein and lower digestibility of this hay also negatively impacts forage intake.  This can lead to lactating cows being in a severe negative energy balance resulting in excessive body tissue mobilization to support nutritional needs.  The loss of body condition can negatively impact reproduction costing the operation in the long term.

To ensure the livestock are receiving an adequately balanced diet, producers should sample their hay and have it analyzed for nutrient content.  This information is then used to develop a strategic supplementation strategy for cattle.  Their nutritional requirements at different stages of production must be taken into account.  In other words, dry, non-lactating bred cows in the mid-trimester of gestation will have lower nutritional needs than cows 60 days from calving in which rapid fetal growth is occurring.  Forage analysis allows ranchers to more efficiently match hay quality to the nutrient needs of the cows.

Producers that wish to utilize their forage analysis in developing a supplementation strategy should visit https://forage-supplement-tool.ca.uky.edu/ by searching the internet using the keywords Kentucky Forage Tool.  This simple web program allows a producer to enter a few pieces of information from their hay analysis, select the stage of production the cows are in along with various supplements to arrive at a supplementation program.  It was developed to help producers utilize their hay analysis rather than simply look at the paper and toss it in a drawer.  Producers are still encouraged to contact their nutritionist or county Extension agent for assistance in designing supplement programs.  This tool will, however, get a cow-calf operator started down the right track.  Stay warm and supplement smart this winter.

 

 

 

12-02-2024 Ag News

 

Maximizing Success with Frost Seedings of Clover

 

Literally thousands of acres of Kentucky pasture and hay fields are overseeded with clover, much of it frost-seeded in late winter. Yet this is one of the few times where crops are seeded where we halfway expect not to get a stand. You would not accept this for corn or soybeans. Here are a few tips to ensure you have the best chance of getting clover established from a frost-seeding.

1) Address soil fertility needs. Get a current soil test, and apply the needed nutrients. Clovers need soil that is pH 6.5 to 7 and medium or better in P and K. Do not apply additional N except for that supplied from diammonium phosphate (DAP) if used to supply the needed P. But get the soil test; anything else is just a guess.

2) Select a good variety. Choose an improved variety with known performance and genetics. Choosing a better red clover variety can mean as much as three tons of additional hay and longer stand life. Spread enough seed. UK recommends 6 to 8 pounds of red and 1 to 2 pounds of white/ladino clover per acre. Apply higher rates if using only one clover type. Applying the minimum (6 lb. red and 1 lb. white) will put over 50 seeds per square foot on the field (37 red, 18 white).

3) Make sure seed lands on bare soil. Excess grass or thatch must be grazed and/or disturbed until there is bare ground showing prior to overseeding. The biggest cause of seeding failure with frost seedings is too much ground cover. Judicious cattle traffic or dragging with a chain harrow can accomplish this.

4) Get good seed-soil contact. With frost seeding, we depend on the rain and snow or freeze-thaw action of the soil surface to work the clover seed into the top ¼ inch of soil. A corrugated roller can also be used soon after seeding to ensure good soil contact.

5) Control competition next spring. Do not apply additional N on overseeded fields next spring, and be prepared to do some timely mowing if grass or spring weeds get up above the clover. Clover is an aggressive seeding but will establish faster and thicker if grass and weed competition is controlled.

Clover can be reliably established into existing grass pastures with a little attention to detail. Soil fertility, variety, seeding rate, seed placement and competition control are the major keys to success. ~ Dr. Jimmy Henning, Adapted from Grazing News.

Winter and early spring pruning tips

As spring approaches, many homeowners begin to think about their yard’s landscape. The winter months can be damaging to trees and shrubs. To ensure healthy spring plants, homeowners may want to prune the trees and shrubs around their home. But do not just prune for the sake of pruning, make sure you have a valid reason for pruning before you begin.

Pruning during the late winter months allows for the removal of damage caused by winter winds and precipitation. The wounds caused by pruning heal most quickly this time of year just as new growth is emerging on the plant.

Pruning also allows removal of diseased, crowded or hazardous branches. When pruning trees, the size of the tree does not need to be reduced too much in one season. Limit the pruning amount to one-fourth of the tree’s volume. Start by thinning out branches by cutting them off close to the tree’s trunk or a large limb.

Leave the base of the branch, known as the collar, intact. Cutting the collar will prevent the plant from growing over the wound caused from pruning.  Pruning in this manner allows for a healthy tree that is more open to sunlight and air movement.  If the branch is cut back only part way, there will likely be a crowded regrowth of new branches where the cut was made.  Do not seal or paint the wounds resulting from pruning because this will only delay the tree’s healing process. 

With spring-flowering shrubs, rejuvenation pruning may be needed, and the time to prune is fast approaching. The best time to prune these plants is right after they have flowered.  If the shrub is pruned before it blooms, the buds have been removed before their flowers were enjoyed.  When pruning is done after blooming, the flowers will have been enjoyed, and the plant can recover, grow and produce more buds for flowers next spring.  

Rejuvenation pruning removes one-third of the shrub’s oldest growth. This pruning entails selecting the thickest, darkest and unhealthiest stems or branches and cutting them back.  Stems should be cut back to soil level and branches to the point of intersection with the shrub’s main trunk.  This ensures that only the youngest, most productive wood (that which produces the most/best flowers) remains a part of the shrub. Shrubs that will bloom during the summer months can also be pruned during the early spring.

Pruning is not limited to a certain time of year.  Homeowners can prune at any time if they notice branches and limbs that are damaged either from weather, disease or insects.  Pruning is invigorating for the plants in a home landscape so one should not necessarily think of pruning as a means of size control.  If you have a plant that has grown out-of-bounds, pruning may not be the answer – you may need to consider replacing the plant with one that will reach a smaller size at maturity.

The Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service’s online data base, http://www.GardenData.org, can answer many of your pruning and other gardening and landscape questions.  For more information, contact the Montgomery County Cooperative Extension Service.

 

11-25-2024 Ag News

Cold Stress and Newborn Calves

 

When the weather is predicted to be bitterly cold, producers should take extra care of newborn calves to ensure their survival.  A calf’s body temperature often falls below normal in extremely cold conditions due to a slow or difficult birth (dystocia) followed by delayed standing and nursing.  Returning the calf’s core body temperature to normal (100° F for newborn calves) is of immediate concern then maintaining that core temperature is of secondary importance.  If at all possible, bring close-up cows indoors to calve in a heavily bedded, clean pen.  If calving outdoors, make sure there is dry, clean ground available for the cows to calve without a large amount of manure. If the cow calves outdoors, bring the calf in until warm and dry if the calf is showing signs of hypothermia or if there are no natural windbreaks available.

There are two types of hypothermia: exposure (gradual) and immersion (acute).  Exposure hypothermia is the steady loss of body heat in a cold environment through breathing, evaporation and lack of adequate hair coat, body flesh or weather protection. This type of hypothermia affects all classes of livestock but particularly affects young, old and thin animals.

Immersion hypothermia is the rapid loss of body heat due to a wet, saturated hair coat in a cold environment.  Immersion hypothermia often occurs after the birthing process because the calf is born soaked with uterine fluids. Other causes of immersion hypothermia of young calves may include being born in deep snow or on wet ground, falling into a creek or being saturated from heavy rains followed by chilling winds.

Signs of Hypothermia - Faced with a cold environment, the body defends itself in two ways: shivering, to increase muscle heat production, and blood shunting, to reduce heat loss by diverting blood flow away from the body extremities to the body core.  Mild hypothermia occurs as the body's core temperature drops below normal (approximately 100° F. for beef calves). In the early stages, vigorous shivering is usually accompanied by increased pulse and breathing rates. Cold nostrils and pale, cold hooves are early signs that blood is being shunted away from the body's extremities.  In the case of newborn calves, severe shivering may interfere with its ability to stand and suckle.  Erratic behavior, confusion and a clumsy gait, are all signs of mild hypothermia. Producers often refer to these as "dummy" calves.  Severe hypothermia results as the body temperature drops below 94° F. Shunting of blood continues, manifesting as cold and pale nostrils and hooves. Paleness is due to poor oxygenation of the tissues near the body surface. Decreased blood circulation in the muscles of extremities results in a buildup of acid metabolites (waste products). After the shivering stops, it is replaced by muscle rigidity. The pulse and respiration rates begin to slow as the body core cools to 88° F. Below core temperature of 94° F. , the vital organs are beginning to get cold. As the brain cools, brain cell metabolism slows, resulting in impaired brain function. The level of consciousness deteriorates to eventual unconsciousness. Below 86° F., signs of life are very difficult to detect and the calf may be mistaken for dead. The pupils of the eyes will be dilated and fixed. The pulse may be undetectable. Occasional gasps of respiration at a rate as low as four or five per minute may be the only clue that the calf is still alive. Heart failure is often the actual cause of death.

Treatment of Hypothermia - The two most important factors in calf survival are warmth and colostrum.  Before giving colostrum, a chilled calf first needs to be warmed as these newborns are typically too weak to suckle.  Karo syrup (dark is preferred) delivered by mouth to a weak calf is a quick source of readily available energy and is rapidly absorbed through the mucosa in the mouth into the bloodstream.  Effective methods to warm a calf include:

 

1.  Floor board heaters of pickup trucks.
2. Submersion of wet calves in a warm bath-you must support the calf to prevent drowning.  The water should be gradually warmed to 100° F and will need to be changed to keep it at that temperature.
3. Placing calves next to the heater in the house and/or using a blow dryer to dry and warm the hair coat.  Never leave calves unattended next to a portable space heater.
4. Placing the calf under a heat lamp-be careful to cover the lamp with a screen so the calf will not get burned as it becomes more active.
5. Warm blankets-These should not be so hot that they can cause skin burns.  Change the blankets as needed to maintain a consistent temperature and not allow the calf to cool off.
6. Hot box or warming box-the temperature should not be so high that burns could result.  Some type of venting is necessary to prevent buildup of carbon monoxide and moisture.  Air movement is also important to ensure thorough warming of the calf and prevent hot spots in a warming box.
7. Warm IV fluids may be administered by a veterinarian.

 

Once the calf has been warmed, provide colostrum and maintain body temperature.  Colostrum is a concentrated source of protein, vitamins, minerals and energy and also contains antibodies to diseases or vaccines that the dam has been exposed to.  If the calf is unwilling to suck, use of an esophageal feeder is recommended to deliver colostrum.  If it is not possible to milk the dam, commercial powdered colostrum replacement products are available.  Calves should be fed colostrum as soon as possible after the suckle reflex has returned-generally within the first 6 hours after birth but ideally within 1-2 hours after birth. Once the calf is warm and fed, move it back to its mother.  It is important that they have a place to get out of the wind; a draft free place to go during extreme wind chill days/nights. 

Other Tips on Dealing with Livestock in Extreme Cold: - Water is critical.  Livestock need water to maintain their health and immune system.  Lactating animals have a higher need for water than young stock and mammals in their dry period.  Livestock will reduce their consumption of feed and produce less milk if they don't have water available.  Check your water source several times a day.   It's vital for the health and production of your animals.  In addition, consumption of salt without water available can result in salt poisoning which often results in death of the animal.

Cold temperatures will increase maintenance energy needs. Producers either need to increase their animals’ feed intake or increase the energy density of the diet by feeding higher quality hay or adding grain to the ration.  Consider separating younger and thinner animals that may not have the same internal insulation as conditioned older animals and supplement them accordingly or offer them higher quality forage if available.

Take care of yourself too.   Keep an extra set of clothes and a blanket in your truck.   If you get wet while doing chores, being able to change into dry clothes quickly could be the difference between finishing chores with just a nuisance - or getting hypothermia.   An extra pair of dry boots is a great plan too.  Let someone know when you are going out and always take a cell phone in the event of an emergency. If you get into trouble, then you can't be the caregiver of your livestock that you want to be.

 

MISTLETOE: TREE THIEF, HOLIDAY TRADITION

 

Mistletoe is now highly visible on large trees. Dr. John Hartman, Retired -UK Plant Pathologist gives us the following information on the plant.

“Phoradendron, the scientific name for this parasitic plant, means tree thief.  You can commonly find these small leafy plants on twigs and branches of many hardwood species in the southern two-thirds of the United States. Mistletoes extract water, mineral elements and food from their host tree by way of a parasite nutrient-uptake organ; hence the name, tree thief.

Mistletoes’ use in holiday traditions has roots in pagan times. Its parasitic nature and the fact that it appears to be alive while the host tree appears dead, led some to believe mistletoe mysteriously held the life of the tree during winter.  Druids harvested mistletoe in a special rite, never letting the plant touch the ground, then hung it in their homes for good luck.

Our modern-day mistletoe holiday tradition likely originates with a mythological Norse goddess of love and beauty.  Frigga, whose son was restored from possible death by mistletoe, was thought to bestow a kiss on anyone walking beneath one. Today, when two people meet under the mistletoe, tradition suggests they must exchange a kiss for good luck. 

Phoradendron, the most common mistletoe growing in Kentucky, resembles another species that grows in Europe. It has simple, fleshy green leaves arranged oppositely on the stem.  Stems are short and more branched than the host tree, so mistletoe often appears as a spherical bunch of dense vegetation. These bunches may be a foot or two in diameter and are located high in the tree for better sunlight exposure.  Mistletoe berries range from white to straw-colored to light red. Birds eat the fruits, reportedly toxic to human and animals, then deposit the seeds onto branches where they germinate and penetrate the host tree.

Since birds tend to roost in open-grown trees, mistletoes do not appear as frequently in forest trees. Generally, they do not cause much damage, although they can be harmful to a tree already under stress.  If mistletoe appears on landscape trees or other trees in the urban forest, you can control it through pruning.”

 

 

 

11-18-2024 Ag News

Preventing and Managing Fall Pest In Your Home

 

As temperatures drop this fall, you may notice more insects around your home. Insects often retreat indoors to escape the cooler temperatures as a part of their overwintering strategy.  

As pests mistake your home for a heated pile of rocks, you may see hundreds, even thousands, of insects around your home this fall and winter. The most common autumn home invaders you may see are multicolored Asian ladybeetles and the brown marmorated stink bug. Brown marmorated stink bugs tend to be the first invader with the multicolored Asian lady beetle following about a month later. The lady beetle is sometimes called the Halloween beetle for its coloration and the fact that people usually start to notice them in October.  

While cooler temperatures have begun, you still have ways to pest-proof your home before pests mass exodus to warmer hideaways.   

Inspect the exterior of the property and look for gaps in windows and doors, holes in screens, openings in caulk or other sealants and fix them. Without these easy entry points, insects have a tougher time coming inside.   

Pesticide applications outside the home may also provide some relief but timing is crucial. When using pesticides, focus on doors, windows, utility openings and banding around the foundation. Check the pesticide's label to make sure you can apply it to the necessary areas.   

Since the primetime for pesticide application has passed, if you see clusters of pests on the exterior of your home, you may also spray them with soapy water to kill them before they start squeezing their way inside.  

Once the pests have come into your home, it is best to manage them simply by vacuuming or sweeping them up for disposal. Interior pesticide applications are usually unnecessary, especially “bug bomb” type applications which usually don’t reach the hiding spots of overwintering pests. Source: Jonathan Larson, UK entomology assistant professor of extension 

For more information about pest prevention and management, contact your Montgomery County Cooperative Extension Service.  

 

Cattle Lice Control

 

Lice biting and sucking can cause a number or problems in your cattle herd, including slow weight gain or even a gradual loss, anemia, or lower resistance to such stresses as cold, wet weather or disease.  To minimize losses, carefully plan lice control programs and execute them in a timely, economical manner.

A few lice can survive the hot summer on a small number of “carrier” animals in the herd, usually bulls or old cows. Lice numbers increase during the fall and winter and spread from carrier animals to the rest of the herd as animals bunch together when the temperature drops. The whole herd can become infested over time, but usually only a few animals become extremely lousy.  Infested animals excessively rub and scratch, responding to irritation caused by lice.

Carefully examine the most agitated animals to confirm a suspected infestation.  Part the hair at points along the neck, head, around the eyes, on the withers, brisket and shoulders; then look for eggs (nits) and lice.

Mixed infestations of biting and chewing lice can occur in a herd.  Biting (sucking) lice have narrow, pointed heads and tend to remain attached to the animal.  Chewing lice have a wider, triangular head and are more active.

The following are lice control options effective this time of year:

A systemic insecticide should not be used unless you earlier applied a grub treatment.

A whole animal spray gives good coverage for effective lice control. It also is one of the least expensive treatments.

Pour-ons and dusts are relatively “dry” alternatives.

For an effective, economical treatment you have several factors to consider when making a control choice.

Some products have an applicator or measuring device to help deliver accurate doses. This is very effective when dose rates are a few cc’s per head.   Carefully read the label before you buy.  For example, you might discover different costs for products that contain the same concentration of a specific active ingredient.  Also look at the application rate and method.  Note other cautions or restrictions, especially the time to wait between applications.  You’ll need two applications for louse control because the egg stage is not killed.

Don’t forget to wear protective equipment during application.

 

FARM RECORD BOOKS AVAILABLE

 

For many years, the UK College of Agriculture has printed and made available an easy to keep but effective farm record book for farmers. We have a supply of the record books in the Montgomery County Extension Office.

 

 

 

 

 

11-11-2024 Ag News

 

Think ahead to meet winter hay needs

 

Hay availability in Kentucky may be short this winter because of multiple, compounded issues. The variability of yield, quality and number of cuttings indicate the hay supply could get tight. It is important to protect the hay crop you have and use it wisely—that smart conservation and planning will help make hay last longer through the winter.

Due to weather events—droughts and floods—both hay quality and yield are down. To ensure an adequate amount of hay, farmers should enact several measures. Store hay inside a barn, where it will remain dry. Remember to store hay in barns that have access in all types of weather. If that is not feasible, cover with a tarp to protect from the elements. Buy hay by the ton if possible and require certified stamped weight.

Testing is the first step to knowing how much will be necessary to meet the nutritional needs of the animals they feed, from horses to cattle to goats. Hay is tested primarily for crude protein, acid detergent fiber, neutral detergent fiber, total digestible nutrients and relative feed value. Get your hay tested by the Kentucky Department of Agriculture to determine if you need to buy additional hay.  For more information, refer to University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service publication “Interpreting Forage Quality Reports,” at http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id101/id101.pdf.

Farmers typically feed hay from mid-December until mid-March, approximately 110 days, though that will vary due to weather, pasture conditions and the needs of different animals. To reduce waste, you should get hay, whether round or square bales, off the ground, either by using pallets, feeders or hay carts. Doing this will help you reduce wasted hay by almost half. If that is not possible, feed in long rows so hay is immediately consumed, rather than leaving a round bale out for animals to pick at over time. They will consume the center of the round bale, which has remained dry and protected, first, and that judicious eating will greatly increase waste.

To determine hay needs:

• Calculate the number of days animals will need feed.
• Weigh a random sample of bales using scales at feed mills or truck stops so you know the average weight of your bales.
• With the results of a hay test, calculate how many pounds each animal will need daily.
• Determine the total amount of hay the herd will require over the winter.

Forward planning and good management practices will help ensure an adequate hay supply during the winter. Because hay is a commodity, with a price that relies on supply and demand, it is unlikely that prices decrease in the coming winter months. So, if you do not have enough, you should buy it now, before more buyers move into the market. A tight supply, plus possible hay purchases from bordering states, may possibly elevate what are already high prices. Straw is also likely to be expensive.

For more information, review University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service publication “Quality Hay Production,” http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/agr/agr62/agr62.pdf, or contact the Montgomery County Cooperative Extension Service. Source: Tom Keene, UK Plant and Soil Sciences hay specialist.

 

 

 

Make winter green-thumb friendly with an indoor garden

 

Gardening is often thought of as a spring and summer pastime, but you don’t have to give up your gardening hobby just because winter is approaching. Continue working your green thumb this winter with an indoor container garden.  

Container gardening refers to planting in containers rather than a traditionally tilled plot of land. Container gardening is a great way to bring your plants in from the cold and utilize small spaces such as windowsills and tabletops.  

While the variety of crops you can plant in container gardens isn’t as vast as traditional gardens, there are still a variety of planting options. Here are some easy plants to grow indoors this winter: 

• Scallions: For scallions, also known as green onions, you can cut off the tip with the roots and place it in a glass with about an inch of water. When the roots are 2-3 inches long, plant them in potting soil in a shallow container. You can either harvest the green tops and let the plant continue to grow or use the entire green onion. 
• Garlic greens: Plant a garlic clove in a few inches of potting soil mix for garlic greens You won’t be able to grow bulbs, but the green portion tastes garlicky and serves as a good substitute, either raw or sauteed. 
• Microgreens: Microgreens refer to small edible greens grown from the seeds of vegetables and herbs such as broccoli and beets. Make sure the seeds you use are labeled for use as microgreens so there is no coating that may contaminate the plant. Sow the seeds thickly in new, clean potting soil in shallow containers like disposable aluminum pans with one to two inches of potting soil. Microgreens typically mature after 12-14 days or closer to 21 days for larger seeds and reach an average height of 4-5 inches tall. These can be used in salads, wraps or garnishes once fully grown.  
• Carrots: Small carrots are easy to grow in potting soil. Sprinkle the seeds on top of the soil in a pot or long window box, lightly cover with damp peat moss and water well. And don’t throw away those carrot tops. They’re edible and nutritious and can be used in soups and sauces and even smoothies. 
• Herbs: Basil, chives and parsley are extremely easy to grow indoors. Parsley demands more humidity, so misting the plants will help them flourish. Use organic fertilizer to help your herbs reach their full potential. 

One of the biggest challenges with indoor gardening is the lighting limitations. While you should utilize as much natural light from windows as possible, some plants may need additional light from grow lights. Grow lights come in all price ranges and styles, from full-spectrum fluorescent lights to LED plant lights that are a bit more expensive but use less electricity than fluorescent lights. Incandescent bulbs do not emit the right spectrum of light for plant growth. 

Another issue you may come across is ensuring your containers have proper drainage. You should use potting soil, which has better drainage, rather than garden soil. Be sure your containers have a hole for drainage and are placed atop a detachable saucer or in a tray to catch extra water. After the water has drained into this catching device, empty excess water to lower the risk of root rot.  

Even though you are using clean, presumably "sterile" potting soil, you should wash any plant parts thoroughly before consuming, especially if you are using them raw. 

For more information about indoor gardening, contact the Montgomery County office of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service. Source: Rick Durham, UK extension horticulture professor.

 

 

 

11-04-2024 Ag News

Estate planning: Get ready

 

Whether you farm 10 or 10,000 acres, it is important to have a plan in place in the event that you die or are no longer able to farm. Making an estate plan ensures a smoother farm transition and that your wishes are followed. It can also save your family time, money and emotional stress compared to if you were to die without a plan in place.

Research shows only 32.9% of Americans have a will. Even though the average age of American farmers is 59.4 years, only one-third of farmers have identified their successor. 

To start planning your estate, you need to determine what you want to transfer, their monetary values and your beneficiaries.

There is a lot to consider before deciding to transfer anything. Transferable things include tangible and intangible assets, management and leadership. Make a list of these.

Know your current financial situation. Determine your net worth by listing all of your assets and subtracting your liabilities. You also need to determine whether your farm is profitable. Calculate your operation’s net income to determine if the farm would support one or multiple families and what their anticipated standard of living might be. 

Determine who you want to transfer your things to and the goals for your estate. This may include one or more people. For example, you may want one person to receive your estate but transfer your business to another. You will need to also consider if your estate could provide for a surviving spouse (if applicable) and any minor children.

Gather important documents. These include a list of assets, net worth, birth certificate, marriage certificate (if married), car titles, bank account records, stock certificates, property deeds, earning records, personal and business tax returns, property records, property improvements and insurance policies. Keep these documents in a secure place that your heirs or estate executor know about, such as a fireproof safe.

UK Cooperative Extension Service has developed a worksheet to help you determine your estate planning goals. It is available in the FCS5-420 publication titled, “Estate Planning Part 1: Getting Started.” The publication is available online at https://bit.ly/3H9sIYX or by contacting the Montgomery County office of the UK Cooperative Extension Service. Sources: Steve Isaacs, UK agricultural economist, Nichole Huff, extension specialist for family finance and resource management and Jennifer Hunter, assistant director of family and consumer sciences extension.

 

Ways to deter black vultures

 

Black vultures are native to Kentucky. As a result, they are present here year-round, but you may be seeing more of them now for a few reasons. Their overall populations have increased in the state in the past couple of years. They are also a migratory species with a recently expanded range that stretches from Canada to South America, so you will see a lot more birds in Kentucky during the fall and winter as the birds from the northern range migrate south.

While they are usually carrion feeders, black vultures will attack and kill small- to medium-sized animals, including young livestock like calves, piglets, goats and lambs. This is why they are a nemesis to many Kentucky farmers.

Not to mention, black vultures can roost with as many as 100 other vultures, which can make them seem particularly menacing. Their roosting can cause structural damage, because the birds have a bad habitat of picking at materials that have a rubbery texture. They have been known to damage pool covers, roof shingles, rubber roof liners, vent seals and window caulking.

Since black vultures are federally protected by the 1918 Migratory Bird Treaty Act, you cannot kill them or destroy their nests or eggs without a federal permit. Even if you do get a permit, these birds are extremely smart and very difficult to kill. However, it is legal to take steps to make the birds uncomfortable by making loud noises or spraying them with a garden hose.

It is also legal to use effigies to deter them from your property. Effigies are perhaps the easiest way to deter black vultures. When properly displayed, these depictions of dead vultures are extremely effective at getting these birds to move on their way. Effigies need to be hung high and upside down by their feet with their wings spread, so the vultures can see them from a distance.

Since many Kentucky livestock producers have animals that give birth during the fall and winter, putting the expectant mothers in one pasture and hanging an effigy in that area is very effective at keeping black vultures away from newborn livestock. For the most success, make sure the effigy can be seen from all angles and any location in a birthing pasture. You may need to hang more than one effigy to accomplish this.

Building your own effigy is easy and inexpensive, as you can reuse many items commonly found around your farm. Matt Springer and Jonathan Matthews from the University of Kentucky Department of Forestry and Natural Resources have developed a pattern and directions to make a black vulture effigy using a rubber stall mat that you can freely access and print online at http://forestry.ca.uky.edu/files/forfs18-03.pdf. The entire project costs less than $30 and takes about two hours to complete. Source: Matt Springer, assistant extension professor of wildlife management

For information about black vulture control, contact the Montgomery County office of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service.

 

DECEASED ANIMAL REMOVAL

 

If you need to have dead farm animals removed from your Montgomery County Farm, Call Mike Hall at 606-359-4407. This program is sponsored by the Montgomery County Fiscal Court with partial funding from the Governor’s Office of Agriculture Policy and approved by the Montgomery County Agriculture Development Council.

 

 

 

 

10-28-2024 Ag News

Winter cover crop can improve garden soil

 

No matter how small your garden is, it can play an important role in absorbing carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and temporarily locking it in the soil. There are a number of ways you can improve on this natural cycle, but at this time of year, the best way is through a cover crop.

Soil left bare over the winter months is susceptible to weed growth, erosion that can wash away valuable nutrients and a loss of carbon into the atmosphere. Soil nitrogen left over from this year’s crop is subject to leaching due to fall and winter precipitation. Planting a fast-growing cover crop can help prevent these problems. The term crop in this context may be misleading. These plants are not meant to be harvested. Instead, they add important nutrients, promote beneficial bacterial growth and stabilize the soil.

Easy and effective cover crops that can be planted at this time of year include annual rye grass, hairy vetch, red clover and winter rye.

Annual rye and winter rye are particularly effective as late-season cover crops. They germinate quickly and are an effective barrier against weeds. Grasses, however, do not capture nitrogen in their root system, so consider pairing rye with a legume, such as red clover or hairy vetch.

Hairy vetch and red clover work well as a cover plant, whether paired with rye or by themselves. Being legumes, they are excellent at fixing nitrogen in the soil. They are also prolific enough to reduce weeds and prevent erosion. In the spring, their blossoms will attract bees to your garden. If you worry about hairy vetch or clover reseeding in your lawn – though they’re pretty plants and would add biodiversity and important nutrients – just cut them back before they bloom.

Come spring, you have two options. You can turn over your cover crop into the soil, allowing your vegetables or flowers to benefit from the nutrients it will slowly release. Or you can cut it back and let it die naturally, planting directly into the crop and using it as a mulch to continue to suppress weed growth and supply nutrients to your garden. Depending on which cover you plant, this may be easier said than done, because some, particularly grasses, are difficult to directly sow or plant into.

Grasses have a densely packed root system, which make them difficult to till or turn over. If your garden is particularly small or you’re gardening in raised beds, rye might not be your best option. However, vetch and clover both have root clumps which are easily dug up and turned over or planted between. Be sure to terminate the cover crop before allowing the plants to go to seed. Source: Rick Durham, extension professor, Department of Horticulture.

 

Body condition scores good indicators of herd health

     

Early winter is an optimum time to prepare your spring-calving herd for reproductive success. Adequate nutrition from about 50 to 80 days prior to calving is critical to maximizing a cow’s ability to rebreed and maintain a 365-day calving interval. If a cow gets inadequate nutrition or is thin at calving and breeding, she will take longer to come into heat and will require more services to conceive.

The best method to evaluate the nutritional status of your herd is to do body condition scores. A body condition score is an estimate of the degree of body fatness of an animal, which gives us an estimate of the amount of body energy reserves available to the cow. Scores range from 1 to 9, with 1 meaning a cow is emaciated or extremely thin, while a 9 is an animal that is extremely obese. Beef producers should train themselves to identify cows that are too thin, cows that are marginal and cows that have an optimal body condition score for rebreeding. Body condition scoring is a tool to help plan your supplemental feeding program so you can maintain adequate productivity in your herd.

You can determine body condition score by looking at the degree of sharpness or thinness in several areas of the cow’s body. The ribs and backbone are two primary regions you need to examine to help establish body condition score. Other important areas are the tailhead, shoulder and brisket regions of the cow. In general, cows with more fat appear smoother in these areas to the point that individual bones are difficult to see.

Cows that are too thin, scores of 3 or less, have easily identifiable fore and rear ribs, sharpness across the backbone, sharpness over the hook and pin bones near the tailhead and sharpness across the shoulders. These cows need to gain approximately 150-200 pounds before calving if you want them to rebreed in a timely fashion.

Cows that are borderline have a body condition score of 4. These cows have easily identifiable 12^th and 13^th ribs, but their fore ribs are covered. The backbone and hooks and pins are still prominent but are not sharp in appearance. The shoulders are less defined. These cows need to gain about 75 to 100 pounds before breeding season.

Cows that are in optimal body condition have scores of 5 or 6 and have a good overall appearance. No ribs are visible unless the animal has been shrunk. The backbone, hooks and pins appear rounded and not easily seen and the area around the tailhead is filled in but not mounded. These cows simply need to maintain their weight until calving.

Research has shown that cows with scores less than 5 at calving have lower pregnancy rates and take longer to rebreed than cows with scores of 5 or higher. The optimum body condition score for mature cows is a 5 or 6. Heifers that are calving their first calf need to have a score of at least 6 to maximize rebreeding success.

The best way to use body condition scoring is sort cows according to their score at 90-100 days before calving and feed these groups according to their score and nutrient needs to optimize reproduction. Each body condition score typically represents 75 to 100 pounds of body weight. Analyze your feedstuffs so that you can accurately balance rations to meet the needs of each group of cows. This method not only ensures adequate breeding potential of your cowherd, but is also an efficient method of supplying nutrients to your cows.

For more information on scoring body condition in your cowherd, contact your Montgomery County Cooperative Extension Service.

 

 

10-14-2024 Ag News

Beginning & Small Farmer School – November 1

The District 1 University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension  Offices will host a Beginning & Small Farmer School on Friday, November 1 from 10:00 AM to 3:00 PM. The school will be held at the Morehead State University Farms Arena Classroom located at 25 MSU Farm Drive in Morehead, KY.

The School Topics will include: First Steps; Farm Design and Layout; Taxes and Record Keeping; Enterprises to Consider and Information From Partnering Groups.

To register please call the Montgomery County Extension Office at 859-498-8741 by Friday, October 25. There is no cost too attended.

 

Fall Nutrient Application Has It’s Advantages

Oct. 10, 2024

Grain producers can take steps now to prepare for the next growing season. Fall is an ideal time to start by applying nutrients to the soil. 

There are several benefits to autumn fertilizing. For one, it can prevent delays in planting come spring. Kentucky's fall weather is generally drier, reducing the risk of soil compaction during application. Additionally, purchasing fertilizer in these cooler months might lead to savings, as spring tends to be the busier season for fertilizer sales. 

Before getting started, test your soil to ensure you only apply the nutrients your fields need. This approach saves both time and money. You can coordinate with your local extension office to submit soil samples to the University of Kentucky’s regional testing labs. 

Once your soil test results are in, follow UK recommendations for fertilizer application. Potash and phosphorus are particularly well-suited for fall application in Kentucky. These nutrients interact with the soil to keep them in place, preventing loss through leaching during the state’s typically wet winters. If you’re planting small grains this autumn, apply the recommended rates of phosphorus and potash before planting. Double-crop producers should also account for soybean nutrient needs when applying fall wheat fertilizer. 

UK encourages corn and full-season soybean producers to wait until the springtime to apply nitrogen and animal manures. Both run a high risk of leaching from the soil during the winter. Additionally, nitrogen losses can occur from denitrification and immobilization during the winter. Animal manures are most effective when there is a crop already growing in the field. 

If you’ve planted wheat this fall, apply just enough nitrogen to promote early growth and tillering, usually no more than 40 pounds per acre. Wheat-following crops like soybeans, tobacco or well-fertilized corn may not need additional nitrogen in the fall. If more nitrogen is required, remember that common phosphorus fertilizers in Kentucky, such as DAP (18-46-0) and MAP (11-52-0), also supply nitrogen that the wheat can utilize. Source: John Grove, Plant and Soil Sciences professor. 

For more information about fall nutrient applications, contact the Montgomery County  office of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service.    

 

Creep Feeding Calves to Maximize Growth

Creep feeding beef calves can improve animal performance and is especially important in Kentucky’s fall-born calving operations. Creep feeding is simply supplementing nursing calves feed supply without the cows also having access to it.

After a calf is 90 to 120 days old, the cow’s milk can only supply about half of the nutrients needed to maximize growth. The other nutrients have to come from elsewhere. In fall-calving herds, that period of time usually occurs in January, February and March when very little pasture is usually available.

High-quality pasture like winter annuals such as wheat, rye and ryegrass are the best supplemental feed for calves but is not always available for creep grazing. Each situation is unique but creep feeding generally is profitable for fall-born calves.

Getting calves to begin eating can sometimes be difficult. One way to aid in the process is to feed their mothers small amounts of ground feed for a few days prior to beginning to creep feed. The calves will learn to eat with their mothers and can soon be switched to the creep feeder.

Creep rations do not have to be complex, but they should be economical and palatable. If the animal will not eat it, then the ration is worthless. Wet molasses or dry distillers’ grains can be used to enhance consumption. It is best to crack or grind grains when possible or if only grain is being fed, to roll it. Byproduct feeds like soyhulls and corn gluten feed can also be used.

There are also commercial creep feeds available and some producers may find that purchasing these feeds is the best method for their operation.

 

Kentucky forests signal season change

If you’ve been waiting all year to see beautiful fall colors in Kentucky, it is almost time. Mid-October is usually the beginning of the state’s brilliant fall tree color show. Actually, these brilliant colors have been there all along; they’ve been masked by a cloak of chlorophylls, green pigments vital to a tree’s food-making process.

Trees use and replenish chlorophylls during the growing season. High replacement maintains green leaf color. As fall approaches, the green pigments are replaced at a slower rate due to complex environmental factors and the trees’ genetic makeup. The dwindling supply of green pigments unmasks other pigments that were present all along, revealing the spectacular show of fall color.

We can enjoy a variety of fall colors because Kentucky’s diverse climate and soil composition enable many diverse trees to grow here.

Black gum, pear, sumac, dogwood, maple, oak and sassafras trees produce various shades of red. Other trees give us a range of orange and yellow hues such as yellow-poplar, birch, hickory and beech.

Since black gum and sumac trees shut down chlorophyll production early, they are the first to reveal fall color. Both change from green to red, leaf by leaf. No leaf seems to be all green or red at the same time, giving a spotty appearance throughout the trees.

You might be surprised to know that what makes leaves change color has less to do with “Jack Frost” and more to do with shorter days activating a “chemical clock” that tells the trees to shut down chlorophyll production and prepare for winter.

When the tree completely shuts down chlorophyll production, a layer at the base of the leaf forms. This abscission layer causes the leaf to fall off the branch, leaving only the bud with next year’s leaves and flowers to wait for the signal in the spring to bloom and grow. Source: Billy Thomas, UK extension forester.

 

 

 

10-07-2024 Ag News

 

Fall Weed Control Considerations for Grazed Pastures

 

The first step in determining weed control needs in the fall is to do a critical assessment or evaluation of pasture fields and bordering fencerows.  Not only take an inventory of the current weeds present, but scout fields looking for any developing new weed problems in their seedling growth stages.  Identify areas of the field where potential cool-season weeds such as thistles, poison hemlock, and buttercup are emerging from seed and starting to develop. These seedling plants are often present in areas where mature plants had been observed earlier in the season when they were flowering during the spring and early summer months.  They are also often found in fields with open bare areas where the desirable forage species are thin due to excessive grazing and other environmental conditions. 

If you do see developing cool-season weed problems then you may want to take corrective action this fall and early next spring to address these problems.  In general, herbicide products that contain 2,4-D are usually effective on young biennial thistles, poison hemlock rosettes, and germinating buttercups.  As long as daytime temperatures are near or above 60 F herbicide treatments can be applied when these weeds are in an active growing period during October and November.  In some cases, herbicide treatments may not be the best solution or may not correct all weed problems observed. 

Here are some additional points to consider as you make those decisions.  When evaluating a pasture field with developing weed problems, you must decide whether or not to either 1) drill or overseed more forages into an existing pasture to improve the stand of desirable forage grasses to make them more competitive  OR  2) spray herbicides to control emerged broadleaf weeds.   You will not be able to do both practices at the same time since most pasture herbicides have the potential to injure newly emerging forage grasses or legumes.  For pasture herbicides which contain only 2,4-D it is generally recommended to wait 3 to 4 weeks after spraying before reseeding forage grasses and at least 6 to 8 weeks before seeding clovers or other legumes.  Other broadleaf herbicides may require a waiting period of 6 months or longer between time of application and seeding forage legumes (consult the label of specific herbicide products used).  Therefore, as a general rule of thumb, if you decide to spray this fall you will need to wait until next spring before seeding additional forages.  If you reseed in the fall, then it is recommended that you wait until the new forage grass seedlings have a well-established root systems with secondary roots before making a herbicide application.  It is important to note that anytime broadleaf pasture herbicides are applied clovers or other desirable legumes are likely to be killed or severely injured within the areas treated. 

If weeds are not prevalent and the existing stand of desirable forages appear to be competitive enough to minimize emergence of winter annual weeds, another course of action this fall is a “wait and see” approach.  But, keep in mind that smaller weeds are easier to control than after they increase in size and become more mature.  You may need to revaluate these fields in late February and March to determine if corrective action is needed in early spring.

Source: JD Green, Extension Weed Scientist

 

 

 

Bug proof your house this fall

 

You may have noticed your home being invaded by an assortment of pests this fall, including Asian lady beetles, boxelder bugs, crickets, spiders and black soldier beetle larvae. These creatures typically visit homes that provide easy entry this time of year, often seeking refuge from changing weather.

Pest proofing your home is the most efficient way to keep these critters out. A swatter, broom or vacuum cleaner and trash container will take care of pests that occasionally wander indoors. It’s best to deal with boxelder bugs and lady beetles outside, before they enter your home.

Following these guidelines will help pest proof your home or place of business and some may even help you conserve energy and increase the comfort level this fall and winter.

Install door sweeps or thresholds at the base of all exterior entry doors, paying particular attention to the bottom corners that are a common entry location. Insects and spiders can enter through a gap of one-sixteenth of an inch or less. Get down on the floor and check for light entering under doors; this indicates possible pest entryways.

To close other potential pest entries, apply caulk on the bottom outside edges and sides of door thresholds; fit garage doors with a rubber bottom seal because vinyl doesn’t seal well in the winter; and line the bottom track of sliding glass doors with foam weather stripping ½ to ¾ inch wide to seal any gaps.

Utility openings where pipes and wires enter the foundation and siding are common entry points for spiders, ants, yellowjackets and rodents. You can use caulk, cement, urethane expandable foam, steel wool and copper mesh to plug openings around outdoor faucets, receptacles, gas meters, clothes dryer vents and telephone or cable television wires.

Apply a good-quality silicone or acrylic latex caulk to cracks around windows, doors, fascia boards and other openings. Before you apply the caulk, clean existing caulk, and remove any that’s peeling to aid adhesion. Be sure to use a good caulking gun. Desirable features are a back-off trigger to stop caulk when desired, a built-in “slicer” to remove the tip from new caulking tubes, and a nail to puncture the seal within. These guns are available for less than $10.

To reduce the entry of lady beetles, cluster flies and other overwintering pests, repair gaps and tears in window and door screens. Keep windows closed when adults are emerging to prevent entry. Repairing screens also will keep out flies, gnats, mosquitoes and midges next summer.

Another way to prevent pest entry is to apply an exterior barrier treatment with insecticides. To gain the most from this effort, apply long-lasting liquid formulations that contain synthetic pyrethroids. These products are available at some hardware, lawn and garden shops.

If you apply the barrier treatment, use a compressed air or hose-end sprayer to treat the base of all exterior doors, garage, crawl space entrances, foundation vents, utility openings and beneath siding. It’s also useful to treat the outside perimeter of the foundation with a two- to six-foot wide band along the ground and two to three feet up the foundation wall.

If you prefer not to tackle these pest-proofing activities, contact a professional pest control firm. Many firms are beginning to offer pest-proofing services. Sources:  Lee Townsend and Mike Potter, UK entomologists

 

 

 

 

 

 

09-30-2024 Ag News

Beef Cattle Producers - BEWARE OF GRAZING JOHNSONGRASS WITH FROST APPROACHING!

PRUSSIC ACID

 

Prussic Acid: Naturally occurring glycosides may form prussic acid, also called hydrocyanic acid or HCN, which can build up to toxic levels in a number of plants including Johnsongrass, sorghum, sudangrass, sorghum-sudan hybrids, and wild cherry. Pearl millet does not produce prussic acid. Prussic acid is most likely to build up to dangerous levels immediately after a killing frost. Also, tender young growth occurring immediately after a long drought can be potentially toxic. Young, tender fast-growing plants are more likely to be toxic than older, more mature plants.

Prussic acid causes death by interfering with the oxygen-transferring ability of the red blood cells, causing animals to suffocate. Symptoms include excessive salivation, rapid breathing, and muscle spasms, and may occur within 10 to 15 minutes after the animal consumes prussic acid-containing forage. Animals may stagger, collapse, and eventually die.

Prussic acid and nitrate poisoning are not the same. Toxic levels of nitrates result from heavy N fertilization followed by severe drought stress. Unlike nitrates, prussic acid deteriorates with time. Forage with high levels of prussic acid which is ensiled is usually safe to feed after the ensiling process is completed within 3 weeks after silo fill. Hay which has dried enough to be safely baled (18 to 20 percent moisture) will not contain toxic levels of prussic acid. Standing plants killed by frost are normally safe after about one week. However, in some instances only plants in certain portions of a field are initially killed and subsequent frosts create danger spots in other areas.

Prussic Acid Poisoning can be reduced by:

1. Grazing sorghum or sorghum cross plants only when they are at least 15 inches tall.

2. Do not graze plants during and shortly after drought periods when growth is severely reduced.

3. Do not graze wilted plants or plants with young tillers.

4. Do not graze for two weeks after a non-killing frost.

5. Do not graze after a killing frost until plant material is dry (the toxin is usually dissipated within 48 hours).

6. Do not graze at night when frost is likely.

7. Delay feeding silage 6 to 8 weeks following ensiling.

8. Do not allow access to wild cherry leaves whether they are wilted or not. After storms always check pastures for fallen limbs.

9. When in doubt DON’T.

Losses from Prussic Acid is mostly preventable when we understand the cause-effect-weather relationship and take necessary steps to prevent.

 

Stink bug management

           

A stinky brown army is marching across Kentucky this fall, accidentally entering your homes and offices and they look for protective overwintering sites. Brown marmorated stink bugs leave a stain and a very unpleasant odor when mashed. Once winter ends, the insects move on and resume their normal life cycle. But they can leave a path of plant damage in their wake. You take charge and reclaim your structures and fields from these invaders.

The best treatment is prevention. First, you need to learn to differentiate between the brown marmorated stink bug and other types of insect look-alikes. The brown marmorated stink bug has the characteristic shield-shaped stink bug body. Winged adults are approximately five-eights-inch long with a mottled brown-gray body. The fourth segment of each antenna has a white band. Edges of the abdominal segments that extend laterally from under the wings are alternatively banded with black and white. The underside of the body is white to light gray with gray or black markings, and the legs are brown with faint white bands.

The best way to manage the insects is to seal up structures so they never make it inside in the first place. Look around your homes and other buildings for cracks around windows, doors, siding, utility pipes, behind chimneys, underneath the wood fascia and other openings. Seal the cracks with a good quality silicone-latex caulk. You should also repair or replace damaged screens on windows and doors.

Exterior insecticides may offer some relief from infestations when sealing a structure is difficult or impossible. Products containing active ingredients deltamethrin, cyfluthrin, lambda-cyhalothrin, cypermethrin or permethrin are some options for you to consider. You need to apply these products in the fall as the bugs begin to congregate. Sunlight will break down these chemicals, so you’ll have to stay vigilant and be ready to reapply every few days or every week to make sure they are effective.

If the bugs make it inside your home or building, try to find where the insects are entering and seal those entrances up with caulk. You can remove live and dead insects with a vacuum cleaner, but understand that your vacuum may acquire a smell of stink bugs for a time. Entomologists at the University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, Food and Environment don’t recommend using insecticides after bugs enter a structure. Although insecticidal dust treatments most likely will kill stink bugs, you will have a possible problem with carpet beetles feeding on the dead stink bugs and then moving on to your woolens or stored dry goods.

Aerosol foggers will kill stink bugs that have amassed on ceilings and walls. More insects often appear after the room is aerated. So these are just not good long-term solutions once you already have a problem. Source: Lee Townsend, UK extension entomologist

 

 

 

 

 

09-23-2024 Ag News

 

Alternative Storage Systems Could Help Farmers In Times of Higher Yields

 

Alternative grain storage options are becoming increasingly valuable as agricultural production intensifies, offering farmers flexible and cost-effective solutions. While traditional grain bins are widely used, alternatives such as grain bags, flat storage and temporary structures provide practical choices for producers looking to manage harvests and mitigate risks. These systems offer benefits in terms of cost, accessibility and adaptability, allowing farmers to address specific needs without the heavy investment in permanent infrastructure.

Grain storage plays a key role in managing risk by reducing harvest delays, avoiding price lows during peak harvest times and allowing for earlier harvesting at higher moisture levels if drying systems are available. Traditional grain bins offer long-term storage but require significant initial investment and construction time. In contrast, alternative storage options can be quickly deployed and used for both short- and long-term needs, depending on the operation’s scale and requirements.

One of the most popular alternatives is the use of grain bags. These commercial-grade plastic bags can hold 10,000 bushels of grain or more and provide a temporary but weather-tight storage solution. Grain bags are ideal for producers who need on-site storage without the infrastructure costs of permanent bins. However, because they are not reusable, regular monitoring is necessary to avoid spoilage from tears or punctures by wildlife. Despite these challenges, grain bags are a flexible and accessible option for short-term storage, particularly when paired with modern sensors to monitor moisture and temperature levels.

Flat storage systems are another alternative, utilizing open areas or machine storage buildings. These systems are versatile and capable of holding substantial amounts of grain but require careful management to maintain grain quality. Moisture protection, aeration and pest control are critical factors in maintaining the integrity of grain stored in flat structures. While they are a cost-effective solution, flat storage systems pose a higher risk of spoilage than more controlled environments, such as traditional bins.

Temporary storage structures, including bin rings and upright silos, can also provide a quick and scalable storage option where available. Bin rings can be set up rapidly and are often used when immediate storage is needed. However, they come with risks such as inadequate aeration and moisture control, making them less suitable for long-term storage. Protection from the elements and pests is a top priority with temporary storage structures, as they are more exposed than grain bags or permanent bins.

Alternative grain storage systems offer flexible solutions for farmers seeking to manage their harvests efficiently. These options can provide cost-effective, short-term storage solutions that, when properly monitored, help maintain grain value and reduce risks associated with spoilage and pests. A spreadsheet is available to easily calculate the holding capacity of various storage structures at https://bae.ca.uky.edu/extension/grain-storage-systems. Source: Sam McNeill, professor of biosystems and agriculture engineering.

For more information about alternative grain storage, contact the Montgomery County office of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service.   

 

Time To Plant Your Fall Garden

 

As the summer warmth begins to wane, you don’t have to bid farewell to the joys of cultivating your garden. This time between seasons offers a golden opportunity to plant a vibrant fall vegetable garden, promising an uninterrupted flow of produce throughout autumn. Alternating balmy days and brisk nights support a variety of cool-season vegetables for your family to enjoy. 

Some of the best quality vegetables are produced during fall’s warm days and cool nights. These environmental conditions add sugar to late-season sweet corn and cole crops, such as cauliflower and cabbage, and add crispness to carrots. 

Fall vegetables harvested after early September consist of two types: the last succession plantings of warm-season crops, such as corn and bush beans; and cool-season crops that grow well during the cool fall days and withstand frost. 

When planting a fall garden, group crops the same way you would in the spring; plant so taller plants don’t shade out shorter ones. To encourage good germination, fill each seed furrow with water and let it soak in. Keep the soil moist but not wet until seeds have germinated. Be aware that cool nights slow growth, so plants take longer to mature in the fall than in the summer. 

You may use polyethylene row covers to extend the growing season of frost-sensitive crops, such as tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers. This helps trap heat from the soil and protect the crop from chilly night temperatures. 

Often Kentucky experiences a period of mild weather after the first killing frost. If you protect frost-sensitive vegetables at critical times in the fall, you could extend the harvest season by several weeks. 

Once these vegetables die due to lower temperatures, you may be able to plant cool-season crops in their place. Leafy greens like lettuce and spinach may grow into November or December under polyethylene row covers if outside temperatures do not drop below the teens. Be sure to allow for ventilation on sunny days to prevent overheating. 

You may successfully seed or transplant the following vegetables now for fall harvest: Bibb lettuce, leaf lettuce, kale, mustard greens, radishes, spinach, snow peas and turnips for greens. Source: Rick Durham, UK extension horticulture specialist.

For more information about planting your fall garden, contact the Montgomery County office of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service.    

 

 

09-09-2024 Ag News

 

Fall landscape care

 

So often we hear that fall or winter is a particularly good time to do certain things in the landscape. This is usually due to the fact that plants have entered into winter dormancy.

You can compare dormancy to an extended period of "rest" for plants, when they are relatively inactive in terms of metabolic processes (photosynthesis, respiration and transpiration, for example). I say relatively inactive, because although these processes slow during dormancy, they do not cease altogether. Most temperate perennial plants will enter dormancy in autumn as daylight shortens, temperatures (including soil temperatures) become cooler, terminal buds are set, and perhaps as a result of drier conditions during late summer and fall.

Going dormant is the way these plants survive the cold of winter. It is important that landscape maintenance activities not interfere with the plant's natural process of becoming dormant. Let's use pruning and fertilization practices as examples.

Fall is considered a poor time to prune most woody perennials. Pruning will remove terminal buds that help to maintain dormancy in many species. The presence of the terminal bud, even in a seemingly inactive state, suppresses the growth of lower buds through a process called apical dominance, a type of dormancy imposed on the lateral buds. If you remove the apical bud, it may encourage lateral buds to initiate growth in a plant that has not yet fully entered a dormant state. Once lateral bud growth is initiated, dormancy will be hard to achieve, even with the advent of shortening day length and cooler temperatures. So pruning in the fall may trigger new growth that delays dormancy and predisposes the plant to winter injury.

It is better to prune plants in late winter, around mid-February to mid-March. This also allows you to evaluate and remove winter-damaged limbs. Pruning in late winter will occur just before one of the most active times of plant growth, bud break, when the plant is redirecting stored nutrients from the root system out to the branches. This would be the most rapid time for the plant to heal wounds (in our case the pruned surface), while fall would be the slowest time for wound healing. An exception is if you are removing dead or severely damaged limbs due to breakage, insects or disease. In that case, it is best for you to remove them as soon as possible at any time of the year. If the plant you are pruning is spring-blooming (generally flowering before early June), it would be better from a flowering display perspective to wait until after flowering to prune since the pruning process will remove preexisting flower buds.

What about fertilization of woody plants? Fall and winter are considered the best times to apply fertilizer, but you should only do this once woody plants are fully dormant. Otherwise, applying fertilizer might trigger new growth and predispose the plant to winter injury.

How can you tell if plant is dormant? If leaves are falling, the plant has probably entered dormancy sufficiently to allow fertilization. To be doubly safe, wait until temperatures are unlikely to climb into the 70-degree range. In Kentucky this could occur anytime from mid-October to mid-November, so to be absolutely safe this probably means mid-November or later. It’s best to get the fertilizer down before the soil has frozen so it won’t remain on the soil surface and won’t be subject to runoff with any additional precipitation.

If you don't fertilize between Thanksgiving and Christmas, wait until the ground thaws in late February or early March to apply fertilizer. However, you must realize that February and March are not the best times for applying fertilizer to lawns composed of cool-season grasses (fescues, bluegrass and perennial ryegrass). If you are regularly applying fertilizer to your lawn, woody plants growing nearby are likely getting sufficient nutrients from these applications and probably don’t need additional fertilizer.

 

Cover crops are good for vegetable gardens too

Traditional farmers routinely plant a cover crop at the end of a growing season. This is not something usually done by vegetable growers but is highly recommended.

A cover crop is intentionally seeding a crop if your garden is going to be sitting idle for a period of time, instead of letting the land sit fallow.  It will put nutrients back into the soil to improve fertility and erosion control.  The type of cover crop you choose to plant depends on your equipment and level of interest. 

There are two types of cover crops, legumes and non-legumes.  Legumes will add nitrogen to the soil and non-legumes, a type of grass, establishes better than legumes.  In a vegetable garden a mixture of the two is common, but you can choose one or the other.  Cover crops are typically planted in the fall after all crops have been harvested. 

Examples of cover crops include:

• Cereal rye – non-legume – planted September to November
• Wheat – non-legume – planted September to November
• Hairy vetch – legume – adds nitrogen – planted August to September
• Crimson clover – legume – adds nitrogen – planted August to September

Grasses are easier to remove in the spring, before planting, because they have a shallow root system.  Crimson clover is recommended as a legume with its shallow root system and is a good pollinator.

Contact the Montgomery County office of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service for more information about cover crops for your vegetable garden.

Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expressions, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability.

 

B Free Beef Quality and Care Assurance (BQCA) certifications in September 2024C

 

The Kentucky Beef Network and University of Kentucky Extension are pleased to announce that they will be offering free Beef Quality and Care Assurance (BQCA) certifications in September 2024.  The Kentucky BQCA program takes national BQA practices one step further to provide a holistic program for Kentucky producers, by adding cattle handling and animal care components to the training modules. Educational modules provide the best management practices for handling cattle and providing for their well-being, in addition to training on the core principles of BQA.  The cost of BQCA enrollment is $5 for in person training through their local county extension office and $10 for online training, however from September 1-30, 2024 the Kentucky Beef Network and University of Kentucky Extension will be sponsoring the enrollment costs, making it free for producers.  Producers interested in taking advantage of this opportunity can visit www.kybeefnetwork.com to access the online training platform or contact their county extension office for training opportunities.

 

 

 

09-02-2024 Ag News

Fall is a great time to sample soil

If you think spring is the best time to take soil samples, you might want to rethink that. Fall is actually the optimum time to take soil samples for fertility analyses.

Fall sampling gives you plenty of time to follow fertility recommendations before planting season. As soon as you receive the soil test results, look at the recommendations for lime and pH, a measure of soil acidity that affects plants’ uptake of all nutrients. If the soil pH is too low, it decreases the uptake of essential nutrients, and elements like aluminum and manganese can become toxic to growing plant roots.

Applying limestone neutralizes soil acidity. Because agricultural lime takes about six months to break down and react with the soil, it should be applied in the fall to be fully effective in the spring. Unlike fertilizer, lime is needed every three to five years, depending on your crop rotation and nitrogen fertilizer history. The only way to determine if your fields will need lime next year is by soil testing this fall.

The turn-around time for test results is much faster in the fall, usually within a week of submission, because fewer people are submitting samples.

You can also apply all the recommended fertilizers, except nitrogen, in the fall. Often a fall application will save you considerable money, because fertilizer prices generally are cheaper in the fall as a result of lower demand. In addition to lower fertilizer prices, it’s easier to get the spreader truck in the field during the fall, because the soil usually is drier.

If you don’t soil test, you can only guess at the fertility needs of your fields, and far too often those assumptions are wrong. Guessing at the amount of fertilizer to apply often results in applying more than the recommended rate. Some producers want to be sure there’s plenty of fertilizer available in case they have a bumper crop next season. However, studies have shown that crops need the same amount of fertilizer in a good year as in a poor year.

If you’re interested in collecting fall soil samples, stop by your local county Extension office. We can give you details on how to take accurate soil samples and where to send the collected cores.

Remember, spending some effort on soil sampling this fall can keep you from wasting time and money. Fall soil samples also can provide big returns for next year’s crop.

The Montgomery County Extension Office is offering FREE Soil sampling for Montgomery County Residents. For more information, contact your Montgomery County Cooperative Extension Service.

 

B Free Beef Quality and Care Assurance (BQCA) certifications in September 2024C

 

The Kentucky Beef Network and University of Kentucky Extension are pleased to announce that they will be offering free Beef Quality and Care Assurance (BQCA) certifications in September 2024.  The Kentucky BQCA program takes national BQA practices one step further to provide a holistic program for Kentucky producers, by adding cattle handling and animal care components to the training modules. Educational modules provide the best management practices for handling cattle and providing for their well-being, in addition to training on the core principles of BQA.  The cost of BQCA enrollment is $5 for in person training through their local county extension office and $10 for online training, however from September 1-30, 2024 the Kentucky Beef Network and University of Kentucky Extension will be sponsoring the enrollment costs, making it free for producers.  Producers interested in taking advantage of this opportunity can visit www.kybeefnetwork.com to access the online training platform or contact their county extension office for training opportunities. “We are very excited for this partnership for our Kentucky cattlemen to continue to tell their story to consumers through sound management practices,” says Kevin Laurent University of Kentucky Co-BQCA Coordinator.  Producers interested in taking advantage of this opportunity can visit www.kybeefnetwork.com for access to the online training platform or contact their county extension office for training opportunities.

 

Attend the OSU Farm Science Review – September 17

The Montgomery County Extension Service is attempting to get together a group to attend the 62^th Annual Ohio State Universities Farm Science Review on Tuesday, September 17. The Farm Science Review is an outdoor Farm Show that has hundreds of ag exhibitors, field equipment demonstration and many other ag related educational activities covering many acres. To learn more about the Farm Science Review you can visit: https://fsr.osu.edu/home . The Extension Service will be taking a 25 passenger bus to the Farm Science Review on Tuesday, September 17th. The bus will leave the Montgomery County Extension Office at 6:00 AM and travel to London, Ohio. The trip will take approximately 3.5 hours, getting us to the show around 9:30 AM. We will plan to leave the show at 5:00 PM and return to Mt. Sterling at approximately 9:00 PM. There will be no charge for the show tickets. All other costs will be on your own (meals, equipment purchases etc.). If you would like to attend, stop by the Montgomery County Extension Office by Friday, September 13^th to register. If we don’t have it on file, we will need a copy of your health insurance card and an emergency contact name and phone number. This is a policy required when riding on the Extension Office Vehicles. Attending this event will qualify as CAIP Education.

 

 

 

 

 

08-19-2024 Ag News

B Free Beef Quality and Care Assurance (BQCA) certifications in September 2024C

 

The Kentucky Beef Network and University of Kentucky Extension are pleased to announce that they will be offering free Beef Quality and Care Assurance (BQCA) certifications in September 2024.  The Kentucky BQCA program takes national BQA practices one step further to provide a holistic program for Kentucky producers, by adding cattle handling and animal care components to the training modules. Educational modules provide the best management practices for handling cattle and providing for their well-being, in addition to training on the core principles of BQA.  The cost of BQCA enrollment is $5 for in person training through their local county extension office and $10 for online training, however from September 1-30, 2024 the Kentucky Beef Network and University of Kentucky Extension will be sponsoring the enrollment costs, making it free for producers.  Producers interested in taking advantage of this opportunity can visit www.kybeefnetwork.com to access the online training platform or contact their county extension office for training opportunities. “We are very excited for this partnership for our Kentucky cattlemen to continue to tell their story to consumers through sound management practices,” says Kevin Laurent University of Kentucky Co-BQCA Coordinator.  Producers interested in taking advantage of this opportunity can visit www.kybeefnetwork.com for access to the online training platform or contact their county extension office for training opportunities.

Three ways to improve your calf prices

Here are three ideas to help you improve your calf prices.

1. Focus on uniformity. The number of calves you sell at one time, which is known as the lot size, has a huge impact on price. Groups of five to 10 calves will significantly outsell groups of one to three calves, provided that everything else is consistent. To help ensure more of your calves are sold together, you need to establish a tight calving season. A tighter calving season allows you to produce calves that are similar in size, type and quality.

2. Sell weaned or preconditioned calves. Calves that are weaned and have had some health treatments almost always outsell freshly weaned ones. If you are a smaller producer, Certified Preconditioned for Health, also known as CPH, sales provide you with an opportunity to sell preconditioned calves in a co-mingled sale. This allows you to gain the financial benefits from larger lot sizes and a uniform health program.

3. Avoid bull discounts. Price data consistently shows that steers outsell bulls at feeder cattle auctions. Over the last decade, a 550-pound steer has outsold a 550-pound bull calf by more than $11 per cwt. This equals about $60 more a head. Even if bulls weigh more at weaning, it is very difficult for them to make up the difference in value at the market. Plus, implanting steers offers an opportunity to get improved weight gains and steer prices. Source: Kenny Burdine, UK agricultural economist.

Fall is a good time to plant trees and shrubs

 

Fall is one of the best times to plant trees and shrubs in your landscape. Fall planting provides the plant with the opportunity to put its energy into root growth now and in the early spring, before it has to concentrate on producing leaves. Roots grow well in cooler soils, and the plant also doesn’t need as much water once the leaves drop.

Granted, there is usually more plant selection in the spring, but with a simple search through local nurseries and catalog companies, you can usually find something that will fill your landscaping needs in the fall. At this time of year, you might even find good plant stock on sale.

Woody plants are sold in three different ways: container-grown, balled-and-burlapped and bare-root. Each has its own advantages and planting requirements.

Container-grown has the advantage of having the entire root system intact. They are often less expensive to ship, because they are grown in a light, artificial soil. If you’re not ready to plant just yet, they keep well in their container, as long as you water them regularly.

The disadvantage is that, once planted, their roots often take a while to break away from their planting medium into the surrounding soil. And because that medium dries out faster, watering is key to their survival.

Balled-and-burlapped trees and shrubs are usually much larger than container-grown plants. When the nursery digs the tree for sale, they cut the root ball and wrap it in burlap. You’ll need to keep these in a sheltered place outdoors until you plant them, and the sooner you plant them the less stressed the tree will be. Because of their heavy weight, it often takes more than one person to move the tree and lower it gently into the hole. Dropping the soil ball into the hole will crack and break the roots.

Fruit trees and hedges are commonly sold as bare-root plants. Bare-root plants are normally kept in cold storage until they are sold. It’s important to plant these promptly before they break dormancy. Because they are light, they are the most economical to ship, but the disadvantage is that they suffer a great deal of root loss when they are dug and the soil removed from their roots. Bare-root trees and shrubs have a higher survival rate if they’re planted in the spring.

When choosing your site, consider not only where the plant will look good, but also where it will grow successfully. Keep in mind the mature size of the plant. It may look lonely planted so far from your house when it’s young, but at maturity, you will be grateful that its roots aren’t cracking your foundation or the branches aren’t interfering with gutters, windows or overhead utility lines.

You’ll want a site where the soil is deep, fertile and well-drained. Planting trees in compacted soils with a high clay content can result in surface roots, stunted growth and problems with diseases and insects.

Hand-digging the hole with a shovel is the best method. The roots must be able to penetrate all sides of the planting hole, so make sure that the sides of the hole are roughed up and not glazed or slick from using an auger or digging the hole while the soil is wet.

Remove all packing material from the root system and cut away all nursery tags and twine or wire. Then spread out or pull apart the roots. In container-grown plants, make vertical cuts with a sharp knife 1-inch deep at four to six locations around the root ball. This action can prevent roots from continuing to circle, which can girdle the tree later in its life.

Plant the roots at the same depth they were previously grown, which will provide them with enough oxygen to take up water and minerals from the soil.

Fill the hole halfway with soil and water thoroughly. Fill the remainder of the hole with more topsoil and water the plant again. Generally, the best soil to use is the same soil the plant came from. Soil amendments such as peat moss and pine bark are expensive and do little to help the plant establish itself in the new spot.

Most newly installed trees and shrubs that die in the first two years die of improper watering; too much or not enough. If it doesn’t rain at least 0.5 to 1-inch per week, water once a week in the cooler months of spring and fall and twice a week during the hot, dry months. Watering during winter is generally not necessary for deciduous plants. Supplemental watering may need to continue into the second growing season. When you water, soak the root zone and do not water again until the root zone begins to dry. Proper watering during the time it takes to become re-established will help ensure your new tree or shrub will flourish for many years to come. Source: Bill Fountain, extension professor, UK Department of Horticulture.

 

08-12-2024 Ag News

 

Attend the OSU Farm Science Review – September 17

The Montgomery County Extension Service is attempting to get together a group to attend the 62^th Annual Ohio State Universities Farm Science Review on Tuesday, September 17. The Farm Science Review is an outdoor Farm Show that has hundreds of ag exhibitors, field equipment demonstration and many other ag related educational activities covering many acres. To learn more about the Farm Science Review you can visit: https://fsr.osu.edu/home . The Extension Service will be taking a 25 passenger bus to the Farm Science Review on Tuesday, September 17th. The bus will leave the Montgomery County Extension Office at 6:00 AM and travel to London, Ohio. The trip will take approximately 3.5 hours, getting us to the show around 9:30 AM. We will plan to leave the show at 5:00 PM and return to Mt. Sterling at approximately 9:00 PM. There will be no charge for the show tickets. All other costs will be on your own (meals, equipment purchases etc.). If you would like to attend, stop by the Montgomery County Extension Office by Friday, September 13^th to register. If we don’t have it on file, we will need a copy of your health insurance card and an emergency contact name and phone number. This is a policy required when riding on the Extension Office Vehicles. Attending this event will qualify as CAIP Education.

Small and Backyard Poultry Upcoming Webinars

• Molting a backyard layer flock and taking care of broody hens (September 3, 2024 @ 3 PM Eastern Time)
• Deciding on coop plans for backyard hens (October 1, 2024 @ 3 PM Eastern Time)
• Budgeting for a backyard or urban poultry flock (November 5, 2024 @ 3 PM Eastern Time)
• Poultry Poopology 101 (December 3, 2024 @ 3 PM Eastern Time)
• Incorporating chickens into schools (January 7, 2025 @ 3 PM Eastern Time)
• Rat snakes and poultry flocks (February 4, 2025 @ 3 PM Eastern Time)

Go to this link for more information and to register: https://poultry.extension.org/webinars/

All Webinars are Free!!!

 

Stay safe during harvest

 

Harvest is a busy time for Kentucky farmers and their families. It also is a peak season for agricultural injuries and an especially important time for farm families to pay attention to safety.

If you have employees, take time to talk to them about safety. Make sure all workers are trained and physically capable of operating equipment and that they understand the safety procedures.

Long working hours can lead to fatigue and stress and that can make you less alert to potential safety hazards. Take breaks when operating equipment for an extended time. If possible, trade off with other workers for a change of pace.

Dress appropriately for the job. Avoid loose clothing, jackets with dangling strings and sweatshirts that could get entangled in moving equipment.

Entanglement in moving parts, especially power take-offs or other chain and belt drivers, is a major harvest hazard. Inspect machinery and equipment to be sure shields and guards on moving parts are in place and in good repair. Replace ineffective or missing safety equipment.

Before getting off equipment, disengage the power and wait for moving parts to completely stop. When possible, shut off the engine.

It is always a good idea to take the ignition key with you, so another person does not unexpectedly start equipment while you are performing maintenance or making a repair. If you are working under any piece of equipment, such as a header unit, always use the jack stand or hydraulic cylinder locks to prevent it from suddenly falling and pinning you. Be sure all safety locks are operational.

Always use paper or cardboard to check for hydraulic leaks.  A pinhole-size hydraulic leak can cause severe tissue damage. If you are injected with oil from a hydraulic leak, immediately seek medical assistance. The oil must be surgically removed, and delays can result in serious infections and possible amputations.

Tractor overturns are the leading cause of farm deaths. To prevent these tragedies, equip older model tractors with a rollover protective structure. Most tractors manufactured after the late 1960s or early 1970s can be equipped with a ROPS for a reasonable price.

Make it a habit to use the seat belt to ensure you remain inside the zone of protection provided by the ROPS or safety cab. The seat belt also will keep you from being thrown off the tractor if you hit an obstacle. Being thrown off the tractor and run over is the second leading cause of tractor deaths in Kentucky.

Never allow any extra riders on tractors or equipment. Keep bystanders away from operating equipment. Also, be aware of people who may have come into the area. Always check around equipment before starting or moving it.

Carry a fire extinguisher on all tractors and self-propelled equipment, especially combines. Periodically check extinguishers to be sure they are pressurized and in good condition.

To prevent fires on combines, be sure equipment is clean and hoses and fuel systems are in good shape and not leaking. Remove trash and debris around engine components.

Check for clearances with overhead power lines when operating or moving tall machines, because contact with them may cause electrocution. Moving portable augers around overhead power lines is especially hazardous so always lower them first.

When filling silos, watch for the bleach-like odor that indicates silo gas. This yellowish-brown gas is heavier than air and will settle on the silage surface and may flow down the chute into adjacent livestock areas. Close any doors leading to livestock areas, keep the base of the silo chute well ventilated and do not enter a silo during the first two weeks.

Farm vehicles on public roads are annually involved in thousands of injury accidents in the United States, and more than 200 collisions involving farm machinery on public roads occur in Kentucky every year. Thus, people driving farm machinery and those driving vehicles should be especially careful and watchful.

Keep slow moving vehicle emblems and extremity markings clean and bright to help motorists notice equipment. Replace faded SMV emblems, and check headlights, taillights and flashing lights for satisfactory operation.

To alert oncoming drivers, use reflectors or reflective tape when the edges of towed equipment extend beyond the left side of a tractor. If a tractor has mirrors, keep them clean and adjusted for the driver to watch for approaching motorists. When possible, pull completely off the road to let a line of traffic pass.

Since it may be difficult to anticipate the operational intentions of farm machinery on the road, other drivers need to watch for unmarked field entrances or other places the driver might be planning to enter. A tractor may need to move to the right to complete a left turn so do not assume the driver wants you to pass when moving to the right side. Pass only in a designated passing zone or when the other driver signals and completely pulls off the road. Source: Mark Purschwitz, UK extension professor and agricultural safety and health specialist

For more information on farm safety, contact your Montgomery County Cooperative Extension Service office.

 

 

08-05-2024 Ag News

 

Managing Cool-Season Pastures for Enhanced Fall Growth

 

It seems early to be thinking about stockpiling cool-season grasses for winter grazing, but how we manage pastures now can have a profound impact on fall growth. How closely and frequently we graze pastures this summer can either enhance or reduce our ability to stockpile grass this fall. The objective of this article is to provide some tips that will help to keep cool-season pastures healthy this summer. 

Fertilize and lime according to soil test. If you have not already done it, take a soil sample and apply any needed phosphorous, potassium, and lime. Avoid summer applications of nitrogen to cool-season pastures. They are generally not economical since cool-season grasses are not actively growing during the summer months. In addition, they can inadvertently weaken cool-season grass stands by promoting the growth of summer weeds. 

Do NOT graze cool-season pastures too closely. Grazing pastures closely during the summer months can weaken cool-season grass stands and promote the growth of warm-season grasses such as bermudagrass or crabgrass in these stands. There is nothing wrong with warm-season grasses, but we want to minimize them in pastures that will be stockpiled for winter grazing. Maintaining 4 to 6 inches of residue in cool-season pastures can also moderate soil temperature and conserve soil moisture.  

Rest cool-season pastures during the summer month. Resting pastures during the summer months allows them to acclimate to the hot and dry conditions often found in Kentucky. It allows plants to replenish and maintain stored carbohydrates (energy reserves) that can be mobilized in late summer and fall to full rapid growth during the stockpiling period.

 Graze warm-season grasses during the summer months. During the summer months, warm-season grasses will produce about twice as much dry matter per unit of water used when compared to cool-season grasses. The beauty of warm-season grasses is that they allow you to get off of cool-season pastures when they are most susceptible to overgrazing. 

There are several perennial warm-season grasses that can be used, but in western Kentucky the most productive, persistent, and tolerant to close and frequent grazing is bermudagrass. Johnsongrass is another warm-season perennial grass that can provide high quality summer grazing. I am going on record to make clear that I am NOT encouraging anyone to plant johnsongrass, but sometimes it is just there. Because johnsongrass is extremely palatable, it can be grazed out of pastures if not rotationally stocked. 

Warm-season annual grasses like pearl millet, sorghum-sudangrass, sudangrass, and crabgrass can provide high quality summer grazing. The primary disadvantage with summer annual grasses is that they need to be reestablished every year, which costs money and provides the chance for stand failure. The exception to this is crabgrass that develops volunteer stands from seed in the soil. Although most people don’t realize (or want to admit it) crabgrass has saved many cows during dry summers in western Kentucky.

Feed hay in sacrifice area. During the summer months, it is tempting to just open the gates up and let the cattle free range. However, a better plan is to confine animals to the weakest paddock that you have and feed hay. You will likely damage this paddock, but it will allow you to maintain strong and vigorous sod in the others. This sacrifice area can then be renovated in late fall.

When it comes to stockpiling cool-season grasses for winter grazing, what you do during the summer months really does matter! So, as we roll into the hottest and driest part of the grazing season, make sure and give your cool-season pastures a little tend loving care. It will pay big dividends this fall!

More information on stockpiling can be found at your local extension office or by visiting UK Forages Webpage or KYForages YouTube Channel.  Source: Dr. Chris D. Teutsch, University of Kentucky Research and Education Center at Princeton.

 

Snakes! Learn more, fear less

 

Around Kentucky, a fascinating world often misunderstood by many unfolds–the world of snakes. Despite their infamous reputation, these creatures are far more complex and essential to the state's ecosystem than meets the eye. More than 30 snake species live in Kentucky, but only four possess venom, while the rest contribute to the intricate balance of nature.

Kentucky's diverse landscapes provide an ideal habitat for these often-maligned creatures. The venomous snakes, ranging from the secretive copperhead and Western cottonmouth, aka water moccasin, to the pygmy rattlesnake and the graceful timber rattlesnake, are vital to the state's environment. They often go unnoticed, keeping populations of mice and other rodents in check. Numerous non-venomous snakes such as the common garter snake and the North American black racer thrive throughout the state.

The University of Kentucky Martin-Gatton College of Agriculture, Food and Environment offers a comprehensive website to help you identify and learn more about snakes you may encounter around your home or farm.

A user-friendly interface allows you to pinpoint snake species based on its geographic location and unique characteristics. A snake's head shape, body structure or color patterns all offer clues to help with identification. Whether you find a snake while hiking through the woods or exploring your own backyard, this platform will help you fight fear with information.

Photographs and descriptions offer a visual encyclopedia for both venomous and non-venomous species in the region. If you come in close contact with a venomous snake, use caution and respect. You may learn to appreciate them from a safe distance and admire them in their natural habitats.

The website details each snake's unique natural history and conservation status. With newfound knowledge, you may see snakes in a new, fresh light. Source: Matthew Springer, assistant extension professor of wildlife management.

Visit the website at https://kysnakes.ca.uky.edu/. For more information about Kentucky wildlife and other topics, contact the Montgomery County Cooperative Extension Service.

 

Montgomery County Farmers’ Market – Customer Appreciation Day – August 17

The Montgomery County Farmers Market would like to invite everyone to a Customer Appreciation Day, Saturday, August 17th from 7:00 AM until Noon at the Montgomery County Farmers’ Market located at the Market Pavilion in downtown Mt. Sterling. On this special day, the activities will include: Door Prizes; Cooking Demonstrations; Nutrition and Wellness Information and Free Grilled Sausage Sandwiches and a Drink while supplies last. Come and enjoy. The Montgomery County Farmers Market is open every Wednesday and Saturday from 7:00 AM to Noon, until the end of the produce season. The market offers a wide array of fresh locally grown produce for customers to choose from. Many Market vendors accept WIC and Senior Coupons and SNAP. Come and support your local farmers.

 

 

The Martin-Gatton College of Agriculture, Food and Environment is an Equal Opportunity Organization with respect to education and employment and authorization to provide research, education information and other services only to individuals and institutions that function without regard to economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, physical or mental disability or reprisal or retaliation for prior civil rights activity.

 

 

 

 

 

 

07-22-2024 Ag News

Seeding Winter annuals

Fall is the time of the year to establish winter annuals. For wheat, seeding should be delayed until October to avoid Hessian fly infestations, but most winter annuals used for forage should be seeded much earlier. For example, cereal rye seeded in mid-August can be grazed as early as late September. The rye then provides high-quality grazing into December and continued growth the following late winter/early spring. Combining annual ryegrass with rye provides faster regrowth between grazing’s and a longer grazing season in the spring.

For extremely high-quality pastures, brassicas are an excellent forage crop. Brassicas include turnips, rape, kale and others. The quality of brassicas is so high though (85% TDN), added fiber is needed to slow down passage rate. Fiber can be free choice hay, but a more economical option is simply to plant cereal rye or oats with the brassicas. A popular mixture is an August planting of 1 bu/acre spring oats, 1 bu/acre cereal rye, and 4-5 lbs/acre of turnips (add 50-60 lbs actual N/acre at planting). This mixture provides high quality because of the turnips, the oats and rye provide fiber and excellent fall growth, and the rye survives the winter for early grazing next year. Winter oats usually do not survive KY winter, so spring oats are recommended. To make this mixture even better suited for pasture production make sure to plant a grazing type turnip that regrows after grazing (Purple Top turnips have good production, but do not grow back after the first grazing).

 

Cattle Grub Treatments

Grubs damage muscle tissue along the back line of cattle and cut holes in the hide to breathe. The results of their handiwork aren't visible until February or March, but now is the time for applying the preventive treatment that will keep them under control.

Kentucky cattle should be treated for grubs between July 31 and October 15. During this period the grubs are very small and vulnerable. Animal complications can occur if treatments are applied later, when the grubs are in esophagus or spinal cord tissue.

Use care when treating for cattle grubs. Accurate animal weights allow economical and effective treatment. Over- dosing wastes money and may cause animal stress while under-dosing may result in unsatisfactory control.

 

Japanese beetles: Good-looking, but destructive

You may have walked into your garden recently and found plant leaves decimated or flowers chewed. It’s the season for Japanese beetles, and as you may have already noticed, they are voracious feeders.

Japanese beetles are easily recognized by their attractive, shiny emerald-green and copper color. They are about 7/16 of an inch long, and if you look closely, you’ll see patches of white hair on their sides.

The beetles have sharp, chewing mouth parts that allow them to grind up tender leaf tissue between the veins, leaving the leaves skeletonized and lacy. But they don’t stop at leaves. They will shred flowers – you’ve probably seen them buried into the blooms on your roses – and even eat fruit.

They’re pervasive. They attack and feed on more than 300 different plant species. Their favorites include linden, roses, grapes, blackberries and peaches. A longer list of host plants can be found at https://entomology.ca.uky.edu/ef451.

Japanese beetles overwinter below ground as grubs and emerge as full-grown beetles in July, spending the summer months feeding and laying eggs for the next year’s batch. It is a natural instinct for many people to automatically reach for a beetle trap when they see their first beetles of the season, but they’re really not the best method of eradication. Beetle traps often attract more beetles than they can capture and that can lead to more damage to your plants. You can experiment with them, but don’t place them anywhere near plants you want to protect. Remedies such as insecticidal soap and extracts of garlic, hot pepper and oranges do not help either.

So how do you protect your garden from Japanese beetles? First, if you’re in the process of planning or planting your landscape, consider including species and cultivars they don’t like to eat. Examples of those are most oaks, hollies, tulip trees and silver maples.

For those of us whose landscapes are mature and planting more trees isn’t feasible, one of the best methods is to simply pick off and kill beetles when you see them on your plants. Beetles will be strongly attracted to a plant that is already damaged by beetles. The more damage, the more beetles, resulting in more damage and more beetles. It’s a vicious cycle. If you walk through your garden in the evening and remove beetles by hand, you’ll cut back on the number of beetles that show up the next day. Pick them off and plop them in a bucket of soapy water.

There are insecticides available that can help kill or repel beetles, but always follow the label instructions carefully and beware of treating any plant that is blooming. Organic options, which offer a three to four days of protection, include Neem oil, pyola and BtG (Bt for beetles). Synthetic options, which offer protection for one to three weeks, include Bifenthryn, carbaryl, cyfluthrin and lamda-cyhalothrin.

 

Dispose of Empty Plastic Chemical Containers Properly – August 5

Many farmers will have several empty plastic pesticide containers to dispose of. In order to dispose of these containers properly, the Montgomery County Extension Service in cooperation with the Kentucky Department of Agriculture have a date for farmers to bring in their empty containers for collection and recycling.

The collection site for Montgomery County will be the Montgomery County Extension Office Parking Lot and the date farmers can bring in their empty containers will be Monday, August 5th from 10:00 AM till 12:00 Noon. Farmers can only bring the containers in during this date and time, so mark your calendars.

The containers that will be accepted will include any empty plastic pesticide container, not exceeding 5 gallons in size. All containers must be triple rinsed or pressure rinsed with water. The caps and loose label booklets must be removed. All containers will be inspected as they are unloaded and any that have colored liquid or caked product inside will not be accepted. Remember to mark your calendar for the Rinse and Return Program and for more information contact your Montgomery County Extension Office.

 

 

07-15-2024 Ag News

 

Dispose of Empty Plastic Chemical Containers Properly – August 5

 

Many farmers will have several empty plastic pesticide containers to dispose of. In order to dispose of these containers properly, the Montgomery County Extension Service in cooperation with the Kentucky Department of Agriculture have a date for farmers to bring in their empty containers for collection and recycling.

The collection site for Montgomery County will be the Montgomery County Extension Office Parking Lot and the date farmers can bring in their empty containers will be Monday, August 5th from 10:00 AM till 12:00 Noon. Farmers can only bring the containers in during this date and time, so mark your calendars.

The containers that will be accepted will include any empty plastic pesticide container, not exceeding 5 gallons in size. All containers must be triple rinsed or pressure rinsed with water. The caps and loose label booklets must be removed. All containers will be inspected as they are unloaded and any that have colored liquid or caked product inside will not be accepted. Remember to mark your calendar for the Rinse and Return Program and for more information contact your Montgomery County Extension Office.

 

Protect yourself from ticks

 

Kentucky is an ideal environment for ticks as we have forests, humidity and a large deer population. It is important to take precautions to prevent tick bites, especially if you spend a significant amount of time outdoors. Ticks do not discriminate on location, and we find them in urban, suburban and rural environments.

The three most common ticks in Kentucky are the lone star tick, American dog tick and the blacklegged tick. Anna Pasternak, University of Kentucky graduate student who collects ticks for the Kentucky Tick Surveillance Program, is seeing lots of lone star ticks and American dog ticks this summer. 

Ticks must have three bloodmeals to develop and reproduce. Those bloodmeals may come from wildlife, animals or you and me. The vast majority of bites from these ticks are just itchy nuisances that last between seven to 10 days, but a small percentage of bites can cause serious allergic reactions and illnesses. 

You can identify female lone star ticks by the white spot on their backs. Males are reddish brown. Lone star ticks are vectors of human ehrlichiosis, a bacterial disease, and alpha-gal syndrome, known as the “red meat allergy.” All developmental stages of the tick will feed on humans, and unlike other tick species that lay in wait for a host, lone star ticks actively seek out a blood meal.

The blacklegged tick is the only species that tends to be active year-round in Kentucky, and it is the only vector of Lyme disease. Blacklegged ticks have a reddish-brown body, a dark head, long mouthparts and dark legs. Males have a dark plate that covers their whole body, while females have a dark plate that covers half of their body.

The American dog tick is the primary vector of Rocky Mountain spotted fever. It is reddish brown with mottled white markings on its back. Only adult American dog ticks feed on humans.

You can minimize your chances of getting a tick bite by not walking through or brushing up against high grass, brush or other tick-prone areas. You can wear a tick repellent that contains between 20% to 30% DEET on exposed skin and use a repellent containing permethrin on your clothing and gear. Wear light-colored clothing, as this makes ticks easier to see. Tuck long pants into your socks or boots to minimize the chances of ticks attaching to your pantleg.

Many times, ticks find their way indoors through our pets. Reduce your pet’s chances of attracting ticks by using a tick collar, spray or shampoo or a monthly “top spot” medication.

Promptly finding and removing ticks is key to reducing your chances of contracting Rocky Mountain spotted fever and Lyme disease. Ticks must be attached to humans for several hours before they transmit these diseases. While outdoors, you should check yourself and your friends, family members and pets for ticks every two to three hours and again after you return home. Some of the most common places to find them are behind your ears, hair, neck, legs and around your waist. If ticks are found, the best way to remove them is by using a fine-tipped tweezer. Sources: Jonathan Larson, UK extension entomologist and Anna Pasternak UK graduate student

More information on ticks is available at the Montgomery County office of the UK Cooperative Extension Service.

 

Help your garden weather a heatwave

 

If you think you’re hot, ask your plants (not literally). They can suffer under high summer heat, too.

Most vegetables and native plants can withstand a periodic heatwave, but once the soil dries out in the top few inches, all plants can feel the stress. Some vegetables like beans and tomatoes may delay producing fruit during hot weather but this is usually temporary. A layer of mulch around your plantings can help hold moisture for those important surface roots and moderate the soil’s temperature. A light-colored mulch like straw, pine needles or grass clippings can help to reflect heat back and away from the plant’s roots.

Water your plants in the early morning before the heat of day to prevent water loss to evaporation. If you use sprinklers, most of that water can be lost through wind drift and evaporation, so try to water on a calm morning. Hand watering gives you the best control and directs the water exactly where you need it. If you can, it is best to soak the soil directly beneath the plant and avoid getting the leaves wet. Soaker hoses are good for directing the water where it’s needed most.

Watering in the morning also discourages slugs and fungal diseases. An evening dousing can leave the soil and foliage wet for longer periods of time and encourage snails, slugs and the spread of disease.

You may have to water container gardens two or even three times a day, depending on how large the container is and how much foliage is present. If they are small enough to be moved, shifting containers to a place where they can get partial shade will help manage the plants’ stress, but some plants may not bloom as well when exposed to prolonged shady conditions.

During normal weather, young trees need at least 10 gallons of water a week for the first three years directed toward their developing root systems. If you find yourself in a hot dry spell, provide your young trees and shrubs with more water. They are at their most susceptible during those early years. A tree bag which contains a reservoir of water that is released slowly to the plant can help keep the tree well-watered during the hottest spells. You’ll only have to fill the bag occasionally rather than watering every few days. They can be purchased at most garden shops.

Shade cloth, which comes in varying thicknesses, can help protect plants that are withering under the sun’s rays. Support it above or to one side of the plants, which will shelter them like a porch protects us from the strongest sunlight. Tree branches with leaves can also be placed over plants to provide shade.

Now is not the time to cut your lawns short. Mow them to at least a 3-inch height. That way, the grass blades will provide shade for their own roots and help hold in soil moisture. Avoid fertilizing lawns and gardens during heatwaves, because roots’ capacity for taking up nutrients are reduced during hot weather. You’ll just be wasting your money. Most Kentucky lawns are comprised of bluegrass and tall fescue. Once established, both of these species and withstand quite a bit of drought. 

Many cool-season crops are planted in August, but the late summer heat can be hard on young transplants. Again, shade cloth can come in handy. Or plant them under more mature plants, so they can benefit from the shade the larger plant throws. Source: Rick Durham, extension professor, Department of Horticulture

For more information about how to weatherproof your lawn and garden, contact the Montgomery County office of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service.

 

 

07-08-2024 Ag News

 

Agricultural Development Council Meeting – July 15

The Montgomery County Phase I Agricultural Development Council will meet Monday, July 15th at 6:00 p.m. at the Montgomery County Extension Office. This meeting is open to the public.

Dispose of Empty Plastic Chemical Containers Properly – August 5

 

Many farmers will have several empty plastic pesticide containers to dispose of. In order to dispose of these containers properly, the Montgomery County Extension Service in cooperation with the Kentucky Department of Agriculture have a date for farmers to bring in their empty containers for collection and recycling.

The collection site for Montgomery County will be the Montgomery County Extension Office Parking Lot and the date farmers can bring in their empty containers will be Monday, August 5th from 10:00 AM till 12:00 Noon. Farmers can only bring the containers in during this date and time, so mark your calendars.

The containers that will be accepted will include any empty plastic pesticide container, not exceeding 5 gallons in size. All containers must be triple rinsed or pressure rinsed with water. The caps and loose label booklets must be removed. All containers will be inspected as they are unloaded and any that have colored liquid or caked product inside will not be accepted. Remember to mark your calendar for the Rinse and Return Program and for more information contact your Montgomery County Extension Office.

 

Tomato Problems

 

For all the joy and satisfaction that growing tomatoes can give a gardener, the frustration and

aggravation can be equally as great! Several issues can plague the tomato grower. Here are a few non-disease problems:

Blossom drop can occur when nighttime temperatures are below 55F. Rain can also hinder

pollination and so can high humidity. Shaking the plant can encourage better fruit set by helping to release the pollen for pollination.

No fruit developing on the plant can be caused by too much nitrogen fertilization. In addition to no fruit development, plants that have had too much nitrogen fertilization will appear very large and dark green.

Leaf curling is caused by an excessive amount of rain.

Blossom-end rot appears as a black leathery scar on the blossom end of the fruit. This is the end

opposite where the tomato attaches to the vine. The most common cause of blossom-end rot is

an inconsistency in soil moisture that leads to a calcium deficiency in the developing fruit. This

is often times seen when we go from periods of really wet weather to periods of hot, dry weather.

Correct by maintaining uniform soil moisture through mulching and irrigating. Mulching helps

to retain moisture within the soil, it cools the soil and reduces the competition for water with weeds.

Fruit cracks usually occur during hot rainy periods (above 90°F), especially when preceded by a long dry period. Fruits exposed to the sun are most susceptible.

Sunscald first appears as a yellow or white patch on the side of the fruit facing the sun. The spot may blister and dry, forming a paper like surface. Poor foliage cover allows exposure to sun such as on pruned, staked tomatoes, sprawling plants, or unhealthy plants. Caging offers the best protection.

Blotchy ripening, the uneven development of color, may be due to temperatures below 60°F, root stress from compacted or soggy soil, or low levels of potassium in the soil. The fruits can still be used, simply cut away the poorly-colored areas. Source: By Amanda Sears Agent for Horticulture, Madison Co. Cooperative Extension.

 

Controlling horn flies in cattle                              

Each summer, pastured cattle must deal with an annoying pest – the horn fly. These flies use their piercing-sucking mouthparts to take up to 30 blood meals from their host each day. This incessant feeding schedule and their large populations can severely impact growing calves and lactating cows.

Horn flies can also play a role in transmitting disease. In all, horn flies suck about $1 billion in weight gain/milk production losses and control costs each season.

The close relationship between cattle and horn flies can help with control. The flies leave the animal to lay eggs in fresh cow manure or to change hosts. Consequently, most application methods will expose flies to insecticide residues. These include forced-use dust bags or back rubbers, insecticidal ear tags, sprays and pour-on formulations.

One of the biggest challenges in horn fly control is rapid development of insecticide resistance and there are no clear-cut strategies that solve the problem.

Producers can do a several things to manage resistance:

• Do not treat for horn flies until numbers exceed 200 per animal. Cattle can tolerate up to this level before economic losses occur.
• If feasible, keep growing calves and lactating cows separated from mature stock. Fly reduction on growing and lactating animals is more likely to provide an economic return.
• Use periodic treatments with insecticides that have other modes of action (organophosphates, etc.) to break fly exposure to a single product group. Rotating products with different modes of action is a basic strategy that may reduce the potential for resistance.
• Remove ear tags in fall to reduce horn fly exposure to low concentrations of pyrethroids.
• Use a late-season application to reduce the number of horn flies that will enter the over-wintering stage on the farm.

If you don’t notice significant fly reduction within two weeks of applying tags, it’s a good indication resistant flies are present. Source: Lee Townsend, UK extension entomologist.

 

The Martin-Gatton College of Agriculture, Food and Environment is an Equal Opportunity Organization with respect to education and employment and authorization to provide research, education information and other services only to individuals and institutions that function without regard to economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, physical or mental disability or reprisal or retaliation for prior civil rights activity.

 

 

07-01-2024 Ag News

Pond turnover could be why the fish in your pond are dying

 

Each summer through the early fall, we get questions from landowners searching for reasons why fish are dying in their ponds. Pond turnover is often the answer.

During the summer months, water can become stagnant and stratify, which means it separates into distinct layers of cool and warm water. This occurs because the sun only penetrates the water closest to the surface. Since the sun is unable to penetrate to the water at deeper depths, that water stays cooler. These waters will start to mix when cooler air temperatures begin to arrive and cool the surface water. Heavy rains or strong winds can mix pond water too. This mixing process is called pond turnover.

When the water from the lower depths of the pond reaches the surface, it may not be as oxygenated as the previous surface water. This is because water in the bottom of the pond may have a higher organic matter content and fewer oxygen producing plants. Fish need dissolved oxygen to live. This water may also contain gases, such as hydrogen sulfide, which are toxic to fish. When turnover occurs, it can cause an algal bloom die-off, a fish kill due to low dissolved oxygen or both.

Turnover usually only occurs during the warmer months of the year. Late fall, winter and early spring typically have lower surface water temperatures, and wind and rain help pond waters stay well mixed and maintain a more uniform temperature.

People will build commercial fish production ponds at shallower depths to prevent pond turnover. For existing ponds, the only way to prevent turnover is to install a system that mechanically aerates or mixes the pond and circulates the water from spring through fall. However, these systems are often expensive.

If you have dead fish in your pond, you can allow the fish to decompose in the water. You can also remove and discard the fish, but they may smell far more pungent on land than in the water. Source: Forrest Wynne, extension specialist for aquaculture, Kentucky State University.

More information on pond management is available at the Montgomery County office of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service or by contacting the Division of Aquaculture at Kentucky State University.

 

Preventing Pinkeye In Cattle

Flies are a major pest for many reasons and in Kentucky’s beef herds they can be the source that spreads a serious eye infection among the herd.

Pinkeye is a bacterial infection of the eye that, if left untreated, can result in complete blindness.

The biggest problem it causes for beef producers is decreased weaning weight. Research conducted by UK has shown that calves that have had pinkeye in just one eye weaned 30 pounds lighter than those without pinkeye. If the disease occurred in both eyes, it decreases weaning weight by 70 pounds.

This is a significant factor in terms of taking dollars out of the pockets of our beef producers.

If blindness results, not only will the producer sustain a loss in weaning weight but also will receive a discount in price at sell time.

Treatment should be done to animals that develop pinkeye but prevention is the key. Face fly control is very important. While flies do not cause pinkeye, they are the vector that spreads the bacteria from animal to animal. Preventing eye irritation from seed heads in overgrown pastures is also an important factor.

Providing good vitamin and mineral nutrition in both cows and calves is very important to allow them to mount an immune response and to fight off the disease. Vaccines are also available and can be used, although there are several strains of the bacteria that cause pinkeye and not all the vaccines contain all the strains of the bacteria.

Pinkeye can be a difficult disease to prevent but it is well worthwhile. It is very costly to the producer not to try to prevent pinkeye in his beef cows.

 

2024 Montgomery County Farmer’s Market Is Now Open

The 2024 Montgomery County Farmer’s Market Officially Opened, Saturday, June 22. This year’s market is at the Market Pavilion in downtown Mt. Sterling at 153 South Maysville Street. The Market will be open every Wednesday and Saturday from 7:00 AM to 12:00 Noon, until Mid-October. The market will again offer a wide array of fresh locally grown produce for customers to choose from. Many Market vendor’s will be accepting WIC and Senior Coupons and SNAP. Also, the market will be offering Double Dollar Coupons to WIC and Senior customers. We hope that everyone will come and support our local farmers.

Dispose of Empty Plastic Chemical Containers Properly – August 5

 

Many farmers will have several empty plastic pesticide containers to dispose of. In order to dispose of these containers properly, the Montgomery County Extension Service in cooperation with the Kentucky Department of Agriculture have a date for farmers to bring in their empty containers for collection and recycling.

The collection site for Montgomery County will be the Montgomery County Extension Office Parking Lot and the date farmers can bring in their empty containers will be Monday, August 5th from 10:00 AM till 12:00 Noon. Farmers can only bring the containers in during this date and time, so mark your calendars.

The containers that will be accepted will include any empty plastic pesticide container, not exceeding 5 gallons in size. All containers must be triple rinsed or pressure rinsed with water. The caps and loose label booklets must be removed. All containers will be inspected as they are unloaded and any that have colored liquid or caked product inside will not be accepted. Remember to mark your calendar for the Rinse and Return Program and for more information contact your Montgomery County Extension Office.

 

06-24-2024 Ag News

 

2024 Montgomery County Farmer’s Market Is Now Open

The 2024 Montgomery County Farmer’s Market Officially Opened, Saturday, June 22. This year’s market is at the Market Pavilion in downtown Mt. Sterling at 153 South Maysville Street. The Market will be open every Wednesday and Saturday from 7:00 AM to 12:00 Noon, until Mid-October. The market will again offer a wide array of fresh locally grown produce for customers to choose from. Many Market vendor’s will be accepting WIC and Senior Coupons and SNAP. Also, the market will be offering Double Dollar Coupons to WIC and Senior customers. We hope that everyone will come and support our local farmers.

 

Dealing With Cattle In Extreme Heat

Below are suggestions on dealing with cattle in extreme heat.

Here is a good link:  http://www.ars.usda.gov/Main/docs.htm?docid=15627

Actions to Minimize Heat Stress in Cattle (from USDA)

Prepare - Plan - Be Proactive

Actions to be taken before an extreme heat event:

1. Monitor the weather.

2. Prepare a summer feeding program, which is a low heat increment diet, to feed the cattle during heat waves.

3. Ensure that there are no restrictions to air movement such as hay storage locations or wind breaks.

4. Check stock tanks to ensure adequate water.

Make sure to have adequate access for multiple animals to drink at one time. Check reserves, pumps, and all parts of the watering system.

Check the refill rate of the stock tanks; remember in the summer when many animals are drinking many tanks will be trying to fill at one time in addition to other potential needs for water on the same water supply line. During the summer water intake may exceed 9 gallons per head per day.

Midwest Plan Service suggests a water space requirement of 1.5 inches per head. For example, 100 head of cattle would need 150 inches of water tank perimeter.

5. Water intake decreases when water temperature exceeds 80°F. As a result, ensure that water pipes are not exposed to sun. Pipes should be at least 2 feet underground.

6. Consider the use of additional water tanks.

7. Consider added shade at least over the sick pens, and possibly over other vulnerable animals.

8. Remove manure build up from around water tanks, feed bunks and under shade. Manure build up should not exceed 1 inch in depth.

Actions to take during an extreme heat event:

1. DO NOT MOVE ANIMALS.

2. Observe animals for signs of heat stress.

3. Consider wetting the animals or the ground.

When wetting the animals use large droplets (150 micron diameter sprinklers) not a fine mist. Wet the animals to the hide. This means saturating the hair for maximum cooling effect. The water should run off the animals. Wetting is efficient where there is wind and low relative humidity. Night sprinkling may be effective. Ensure that there is adequate water to maintain cooling. Once sprinkling commences it will need to continue until the heat wave conditions abate. Be prepared to sprinkle for up to 5 days. If pens are wet, after rain for example, adding water will further increase humidity within the pen. Consider multiple sprinklers, a minimum of 3 per pen, at various locations within a pen. These sprinklers can be turned on and off in attempt to reduce mud holes. Avoid locating sprinklers around water tanks, feed bunks, or shade.

Use caution if fire trucks are used to wet cattle. If cattle are not used to this treatment they may run away from the water, which could make the situation worse.

The soil in a feedlot absorbs and retains heat well. Ground temperatures in the feedlot are typically 20 – 50 °F warmer than the air temperatures. During an extreme heat event the surface of the feedlot can exceed 150 °F. Adding water to the ground will cool the surface as the water evaporates. Be careful not to create mud holes.

 

Preventing heat-related illnesses

Some things are for certain about Kentucky summers--they are going to be hot and humid. When heat and humidity come together, they can increase your risk of experiencing a heat-related illness like heat cramps, heat exhaustion or sometimes deadly heat stroke. Fortunately, you can take measures to protect yourself and your workers from contracting these illnesses.

Heat-related illnesses occur when your body’s temperature rises faster than you can cool yourself. These illnesses can be exacerbated by hot and humid weather, lack of wind, lack of shade, dehydration, not taking breaks, wearing improper clothing and consuming alcohol 24 hours before working outdoors. You can also experience a heat-related illness by working near a radiant heat source such as hot engines or machinery.

Heat-related illnesses can affect anyone regardless of their age or physical ability. New workers who are not used to working in hot, humid weather, workers with chronic health conditions and those over 60 years old may be more susceptible to contracting a heat-related illness. Certain medications including those used for colds, blood pressure control, dizziness and depression can lower your ability to tolerate heat and humidity. Recently experiencing a short-term illness, such as a gastrointestinal illness or cold, can increase your risk for getting a heat-related illness.

To prevent heat-related illness, you should plan strenuous outdoor activities for the early morning or late evening hours, when temperatures are the coolest. Wear lightweight and light-colored clothing, which will reflect heat and sunlight and help your body maintain a normal temperature. Stay hydrated by taking frequent water breaks. Take frequent rest breaks during the day in shaded or air-conditioned areas. Use sunscreen and avoid getting too much sun. A sunburn can make it harder to lower your body temperature. Work in groups, so you can monitor each other for heat-related illnesses.

 

 

06-10-2024 Ag News

 

2024 Montgomery County Farmer’s Market to Open June 22

If you have been anxiously awaiting the opening of the Farmers’ Market, your wait is almost over. The 2024 Montgomery County Farmer’s Market will open Saturday, June 22. This year’s market will be at the Market Pavilion in downtown Mt. Sterling at 153 South Maysville Street. The Market will be open every Wednesday and Saturday from 7:00 AM to 12:00 Noon, until Mid-October. The market will again offer a wide array of fresh locally grown produce for customers to choose from. Many Market vendor’s will be accepting WIC and Senior Coupons and SNAP. Also, the market will be offering Double Dollar Coupons to WIC and Senior customers. We hope that everyone will come and support our local farmers.

 

Fighting the battle with chiggers

It’s chigger time across Kentucky. Just talking about them may make you itch. Chiggers are actually the immature stage of certain mite species. You’ll find them most often in overgrown, bushy areas. They also congregate in shady, humid areas near stream banks, under or around shade trees or in berry thickets.

After hatching, larvae crawl around until they find and attach to a suitable host. In addition to humans, chiggers feed on a variety of wild and domestic animals, including snakes, turtles, birds, rodents and domestic pets such as dogs and cats.

A widespread myth is that chiggers burrow into your skin and feed on your blood. This isn’t true. Instead, they attach to a skin pore or hair follicle and then inject a salivary fluid that produces a hard, domed area around them, and they use a feeding tube to withdraw liquefied tissues from hosts. The red welt rash and intense itching are allergic reactions to the salivary secretions and can last for up to two weeks or longer.

Larvae feed for about three or four days; then drop off and eventually mature into non-parasitic adults.

There are ways you can protect yourself from these itchy pests. Avoid walking through unmown fields, brush and other overgrown areas. Instead, walk in the center of mown trails to avoid brushing up against vegetation where chiggers congregate.

Create a barrier when you hike or camp in potentially infested areas so that chiggers can’t come in contact with your skin. Wear long pants that are tucked into boots or socks and long-sleeve shirts. Clothing made of tightly woven fabrics keep chiggers from reaching the skin as easily.

You can also apply an insect or tick repellent; just be sure to read and follow the directions on the container. Products containing DEET or picaradin are easy to find and use. You can also find clothing treatments containing permethrin.

Showering or bathing immediately after coming indoors effectively removes chiggers that have not yet attached. If that is not possible, thoroughly and briskly rubbing your skin with a dry towel may remove many chiggers before they are able to attach and feed.

While chiggers are most common in wild overgrowth, they can also make a home in shady areas of yards, parks, camps, picnic sites and recreation areas. You can control chiggers in your outdoor environment with effective vegetation management that allows sunlight in and reduces humidity. Prune trees and bushes, and mow closer. Remove scrub brush piles and accumulated debris to reduce protection for small animals and are important hosts for chiggers. As an added benefit, these steps will reduce problems with ticks as well.

For more information about chiggers and other summer pests, contact the Montgomery County Cooperative Extension Service.

 

Water safety reminders

There is nothing like cooling off with a day at the lake or nothing as relaxing as going fishing. As you enjoy Kentucky’s wonderful waterways this summer, remember to take measures to stay healthy.

While many of our waterways are safe to swim in or eat fish from, some are not due to unsafe levels of pollutants and bacteria. It is important to check water quality advisories before heading to your favorite waterway for recreation. You can see the latest advisories for swimming, fishing and harmful algal blooms on the Kentucky Energy and Environment Cabinet’s website https://eec.ky.gov/Environmental-Protection/Water/Pages/Advisory.aspx. Do not swim in or consume fish from rivers, lakes, ponds, creeks or streams with an advisory.

Any waterway in which you spend time can potentially affect your health. If you come in contact with contaminated water, you may experience symptoms like gastrointestinal issues, skin rashes, respiratory issues or eye or ear infections. If you experience these symptoms or suspect you have come in contact with water pollutants, contact your primary care physician.

To minimize your risk of getting a water-related illness, the Kentucky Department for Public Health and Kentucky Division of Water recommend you avoid ingesting or inhaling water. When you leave for the day, make sure you thoroughly wash your hands and any other body parts that came in contact with water. Do not put open wounds in the water, as it could cause the wound to get an infection. Do not get in water that smells bad or has surface scum. Avoid getting in water after a heavy rain event, especially in dense residential, urban or agricultural areas. Steer clear of waterways located below wastewater treatment facility outfalls, animal feedlots, straight pipes or other obvious pollution sources.

Also pay close attention to the water your pets and livestock consume. Do not let them drink from water sources with a bright green or blue surface scum. It can cause them to experience gastrointestinal issues. Keep your livestock from loafing in ponds or other waterways. Their urine and feces contaminate the water. Consuming this water can give them gastrointestinal issues. It can also lead to a fish kill.

 

05-20-2024 Ag News

 

2024 Montgomery County Farmers’ Market Vendor Applications Available

The 2024 Montgomery County Farmers’ Market Vendor Applications are now available at the

Montgomery County Extension Office. If you plan to be a vendor at the this

year’s market, you must complete and submit the application and fees along with

copies of any permits, certificates and licenses that you have obtained, enabling you

to legally sell special items or give processed samples of products. Please submit

all of these items to the Montgomery County Extension Office by the deadline of

June 1, 2024.

 

Dragging and clipping pastures

Feeding costs are the greatest expense for livestock producers. Grazing is the cheapest source of feed.  Dragging and mowing pastures are two methods that are often used to attempt to increase forage production and soil fertility.  Although these practices are useful agronomically, they may not be practical economically.

Many producers drag pastures to spread manure. In comparison to cutting fields for hay, one benefit of grazing is when animals are grazing, more than 80 percent of the plant nutrients are returned to the soil through deposition of manure and urine. These spots are often concentrated in certain areas and not uniformly dispersed.  Because manure is an important fertilizer source, dragging fields allows for a more even distribution of nutrients.  This practice also helps reduce internal parasites by exposing the parasite eggs and larvae in the manure to the sun and heat.  This benefit is not realized in the early spring or fall when temperatures are cooler.  Dragging pastures also reduces selective grazing by reducing areas that are left un-grazed due to livestock avoiding grazing near manure piles.  

Mowing pastures is a method used to keep forages in a vegetative state, to promote growth, and to control weeds. As plants mature to a reproductive stage, they become less palatable to livestock and forage quality quickly decreases. Keeping plants in a vegetative state not only maximizes forage quality but also keep plants at the highest growth rate which will increase total annual yield.  Mowing off weed seed heads or keeping weeds from going to seed will decrease weed problems. Under intensive rotational grazing systems when relatively large numbers of animals are placed in small paddocks for short periods of time, little or no mowing may be needed. 

Using methods such as mowing and dragging pastures may increase utilization and forage quality although, the expense involved may not be practical economically.  The cost of machinery use and fuel as well as the time and labor needed may be more than the benefits of utilizing these methods.  The best way to achieve these goals may be to adjust stocking rate and time spent in paddocks. Using methods to increase uniform grazing and manure distribution is vital to maximize forage production and quality. It is important to consider the benefits and costs involved in any proposed method.

 

Blossom end rot can ruin tomato harvest

Nothing can ruin a mouth watering tomato more than reaching for one on the vine only to find an ugly, flattened spot on it. If the ugly spot is located on the fruit opposite the stem end, it is likely blossom end rot, a disease caused by a lack of calcium that commonly occurs in tomatoes but can also affect eggplant, peppers and many cucurbits.

Blossom end rot spots develop into dark brown, leathery decays that may affect half of the tomato. Calcium is an essential part of the chemical “glue” that binds cells together within the fruit. When fruits are enlarging rapidly, sufficient amounts of calcium do not reach the end of the fruit. This causes cells to come apart, resulting in a rot or decay in that area. Calcium does not move easily from other plant parts, so any disruption in the plant’s uptake can result in a deficiency.

Soils in Kentucky are rarely deficient in calcium, but water plays a critical role in the plant’s uptake and distribution of calcium.  So maintaining an even supply of moisture is important in controlling blossom end rot. However, to be sure that a soil is not calcium-deficient, soil tests should be taken, and if needed, it can be applied as lime prior to planting.

Irrigate plants as needed, and use mulch to conserve soil moisture. Irrigate on a consistent basis. Don’t allow plants to become stressed from too much or too little water. Avoid wetting foliage as much as possible as this could encourage fungal and bacterial diseases to develop on the plant.    

Trickle or drip irrigation is an excellent way of getting water to plants without the risk of wetting the foliage or splashing soil onto the foliage which can also lead to disease problems.

In addition, excessive amounts of ammonium tend to depress a plant’s calcium uptake. Avoid using urea or fertilizers high in ammonium. Instead, choose fertilizers high in nitrate. Calcium nitrate is an excellent nitrogen fertilizer, although it is more expensive than other nitrogen sources.

 

Don’t Let Summer Pests Bug You

Mosquitoes, chiggers and ticks can make the outdoors anything but fun, but there are ways to limit exposure to these itchy pests.

Some mosquitoes come because of a consistent water source and are generally an annual problem. They also can come from areas that are prone to flooding. Eggs are laid in areas likely to flood, and when it does 10 days later there is a flight of adults. This happens generally in the spring.

If a person has a repetitive difficulty with mosquitoes, then something has to be done to alter the environment. It can be as simple as a town putting on a massive drive to make sure there is nothing that collects water. Tires top that list.

A tire is the greatest mosquito breeder ever invented. It is black. It holds water. It is rubber, and it gets warm very quickly. But old pools, soda cups or anything that holds water for two weeks after a rain can be a producer of mosquitoes.

Other breeding sources may be more difficult to control such as a wetland that produces them constantly and has for several years. There can be some relief through treating the area with an insecticidal product that inflicts naturally occurring diseases into the mosquitoes.

For farm ponds, the key is to have a stable water level because it eliminates one type of mosquito. In addition, insecticides targeting mosquitoes with natural diseases can also be used. Control has to be done all year long and with a plan.

Ticks and chiggers are a part of summer in Kentucky. Chiggers can be controlled in lawns through mowing. Mowing also can help with ticks, but they are more mobile.

If there is a tick problem in the yard, it can be treated with an insecticide but often people do not get the results they were expecting. The problem is not with the insecticide but with the amount of water used to apply it. It takes a large volume of water because all the plant tissue in the treated area must be covered with the insecticide.

If you know where they are coming from, you can spray only in that area and force them to crawl through an insecticidal barrier.

When venturing out on hikes or fishing, try to stay way from tall grass to avoid chiggers and ticks. Undergrowth, not trees are where the bugs are going to be. There are two types of protection that can be used. One is the insecticide called permethrin for use only on shoes and clothing, and there are also the types that can be put on the skin. It is also helpful to wear light color clothes so you can see them moving around on you. These insects have a tendency to crawl up, so tucking in pants or shirts can help keep them from crawling under clothing.

Protecting for ticks will also help in avoiding chiggers. If you get chiggers, all those things your grandmother used aren’t going to help. The fact is, when you itch from a chigger it is already gone. It has already fed. When it feeds, it causes a reaction in your body. Treat topically for the itch.

If a tick is attached, try to remove all its mouth parts and try not to burst it sending blood and entrails go all over the place. The best way to remove it is to use forceps to get as close to the skin as possible and pull steadily on the tick and it will eventually let go. Leaving the tissue of the tick behind may lead to an infection.

People have varying degrees of sensitivity to all these insects along with bees and wasps. If a person is more sensitive to these things, then they need to be aware that they may have to take additional measures to relieve their irritation.

 

 

05-13-2024 Ag News

 

2024 Montgomery County Farmers’ Market Vendor Applications Available

The 2024 Montgomery County Farmers’ Market Vendor Applications are now available at the

Montgomery County Extension Office. If you plan to be a vendor at the this

year’s market, you must complete and submit the application and fees along with

copies of any permits, certificates and licenses that you have obtained, enabling you

to legally sell special items or give processed samples of products. Please submit

all of these items to the Montgomery County Extension Office by the deadline of

June 1, 2024.

 

Spring Tornado Safety      

Each year, the United States experiences an average of 1,200 tornadoes. Many strike rural areas and cause little damage, and most have paths well under one mile in length and winds under 100 mph. However, a few tornadoes can become large and violent, with wind speeds approaching 200 mph, tracking tens of miles and leaving swaths of destruction and death. In Kentucky, tornadoes have occurred during every month of the year and at every hour of the day. However, they occur most frequently from March through June and typically between 3 and 10 PM. Nighttime tornadoes are often more dangerous as they are harder to see and most people are sleeping.

So what do you do if there is a tornado? How do you stay safe?

Before a Tornado

• Have a family tornado plan in place and practice a family tornado drill at least once a year.
• Have a predetermined place to meet after a disaster.
• Learn the signs of a tornado: dark, greenish sky; large hail; dark, low clouds; and loud roaring sounds.
• When a tornado watch is issued, practice your drill and check your safety supplies.
• Increase your situational awareness by monitoring the weather on weather.gov, watching local TV, or listening to NOAA Weather Radio.
• Flying debris is the greatest danger in tornadoes; so store protective coverings (e.g., mattress, helmets, sleeping bags, thick blankets, etc) in or next to your shelter space, ready to use on a few seconds notice.
• Tornado rule of thumb: Put as many walls and floors between you and the tornado as possible!
• If you are planning to build a house, consider an underground tornado shelter or an interior "safe room".
• In a mobile home: GET OUT! Go to a neighbor’s house, underground shelter, or a nearby permanent structure. Most tornadoes can destroy even tied-down mobile homes.

During a Tornado

• Wear a bicycle or motorcycle helmet to protect your head and neck or cover your head with a thick book.
• In a house with a basement: Avoid windows. Get in the basement and under some type of sturdy protection (heavy table or workbench), or cover yourself with a mattress or sleeping bag. Know where very heavy objects rest on the floor above (pianos, refrigerators, dressers, etc.) and do not go under them. They may fall down through a weakened floor and crush you.
• In a house without a basement, a dorm, or an apartment: Avoid windows. Go to the lowest floor, in a small interior room (like a bathroom or closet), under a stairwell, or in an interior hallway with no windows. Crouch as low as possible to the floor, facing down. A bath tub may offer a shell of partial protection. Even in an interior room, you should cover yourself with some sort of thick padding (mattress, blankets, etc.), to protect against falling debris in case the roof and ceiling fail.
• In a car or truck: If you are caught by extreme winds or flying debris, park the car as quickly and safely as possible - out of the traffic lanes. Stay in the car with the seat belt on. Put your head down below the windows; cover your head with your hands and a blanket, coat, or other cushion if possible. If you can safely get noticeably lower than the level of the roadway, leave your car and lie in that area. Avoid seeking shelter under bridges.
• In the open outdoors: lie flat and face-down on low ground, protecting the back of your head with your arms. Get as far away from trees and cars as you can.

After a Tornado

• Remain calm and alert, and listen to the radio or TV for instructions from authorities.
• Keep your family together and wait for emergency personnel to arrive.
• Carefully render aid to those who are injured.
• Stay away from downed power lines.
• Watch your step to avoid broken glass, nails, and other sharp objects.
• Stay out of any heavily damaged houses or buildings.
• Do not use matches or lighters, there might be leaking natural gas pipes or fuel tanks nearby.

By Jane Marie Wix - National Weather Service Jackson, KY (in coordination with Kentucky Emergency Management)

 

Container gardening

Not everyone has acreage or land where they can just dig in the soil. As long as you have a sunny spot, whether it be a balcony or parking lot, if you can get sunlight, you can grow flowers or vegetables in containers. It isn’t difficult.   

Just about any container will do, but the smaller the container, you will be more of a slave to it. Unless you work from home, are a stay at home parent, or retired, small containers do not make any sense. Don’t use anything smaller than half of a bourbon barrel, 24 inches in diameter, if you are going to grow tomato plants. The more soil you can give that plant, relative to its size, the less water and maintenance you will have to do. 

 

 

 

 

04-29-2024 Ag News

2024 Montgomery County CAIP Cost-Share Signups Have Begun

The Montgomery County Conservation District is taking applications for the 2024 Montgomery County Agricultural Investment Program (CAIP Cost-Share Program). This program is to assist Montgomery County farmers in making important farm investments. Applications are available at the Montgomery County Conservation District Office located at 509 Willin Way, Suite 2 in Mt. Sterling. There office hours are Monday – Friday 8:00 AM to 4:30 PM. Eligible Cost-Share Investment Areas include: Agricultural Diversification; Large Animal-Small Animal; Farm Infrastructure; Fencing and On-Farm Water; Forage and Grain Improvement; Innovative Ag Systems; On-Farm Energy; Poultry and Other Fowl; Ag Tech and Leadership Development; Value Added and Marketing. The application period will begin Thursday, April 18^th and the deadline to apply will be Friday, May 10th. All applications will be scored, based on the scoring criteria set by the Kentucky Agricultural Development Board. For more information and questions contact: Nancy Montgomery at 859-498-5487 or email: mccdky@gmail.com. Eligible Cost-Share Investment Areas can be researched at https://www.kyagr.com/agpolicy/2024-Program-Guidelines-and-Applications.html.

2024 Montgomery County Farmers’ Market Vendor Applications Available

The 2024 Montgomery County Farmers’ Market Vendor Applications are now available at the

Montgomery County Extension Office. If you plan to be a vendor at the this

year’s market, you must complete and submit the application and fees along with

copies of any permits, certificates and licenses that you have obtained, enabling you

to legally sell special items or give processed samples of products. Please submit

all of these items to the Montgomery County Extension Office by the deadline of

June 1, 2024.

 

Don’t Forget a Breeding Soundness Exam

 

The spring breeding season is here and hopefully your herd is prepared. One key management tool we can use to reduce the risk of pregnancy failures is getting a breeding soundness examination in your bulls. A breeding soundness examination is done by a veterinarian, costs $50-100, and is a producer’s only method to assess the breeding capability of their herd sire(s). Breeding soundness exams accurately determine bulls who cannot produce normal sperm cells and bulls who are no longer capable of breeding cows due to injury or a physical ailment. Breeding soundness exams should be done about 30-45 days before the breeding season to allow enough time to purchase a replacement bull. If you haven’t gotten your bulls checked yet, call your herd veterinarian and set up an appointment. Breeding soundness exams are like an “insurance policy” on your bull. It costs a little money, but you can’t afford the risk of turning out an infertile bull. Source: Dr. Les Anderson, Extension Professor, University of Kentucky.

 

10 backyard chicken basics

 

Having a small chicken flock in the backyard is very popular these days. To have a successful flock producing eggs for your family, you’ll want to learn the basics.

1. Make sure you check your local city and county ordinances to ensure you’re able to have a backyard flock. Some ordinances require a minimum amount of land and some subdivisions and homeowners’ associations have their own rules.
2. Chickens require daily care. You must feed them, provide clean water and collect eggs every single day. Managing a small flock is an excellent opportunity to teach children a certain amount of responsibility, but ultimately, you’ll oversee the health and well-being of your flock.
3. Birds get sick and it may be difficult to find a veterinarian to provide care for them.
4. Cleanliness and sanitation are critical elements in caring for a small flock. Everyone must wash their hands before and after handling the birds. Also, no matter how tempting, avoid bringing your chickens into the house and don’t use your kitchen sink to wash equipment.
5. Poop happens. Chickens eat a lot and hens use about 60% of the feed they consume and excrete the other 40% as manure. You must have a plan for that manure. One option is adding it as an odor-free fertilizer for your home garden.
6. Keep it down. Chickens make noise. Only roosters crow, however, hens are not always quiet and can make a lot of noise letting everyone know they just laid an egg.
7. The egg season will come to an end. Chickens stop producing eggs at some point in their lives and may live a long time beyond their egg-laying years. Have a plan for what you will do with hens that stop producing. If you keep them as pets, you’ll have to keep feeding them and providing other resources for their care.
8. Housing is a big part of keeping a flock. Your birds will need a house that provides shelter from the weather, next boxes for egg laying and perches for roosting at night. Make sure housing is easy to clean and provides protection from predators. You’ll have to manage their bedding well to prevent rodents from making your chickens’ house their home.
9. Scratch that. Chickens scratch when they forage. If you let hens run free, you may need to place a fence around your garden if you don’t want the birds to destroy it.
10. Know how to get chicks. You will most likely want to raise your hens from chicks. You can buy them online and have them shipped to your home, but some suppliers have minimum quantities for orders. You may have neighbors or friends who also raise chickens willing to join you in an order. Remember you’ll need to provide new chicks with a heat source, such as a lamp, for at least six weeks. Source: Jacquie Jacob, extension poultry project manager.

For more information about small flocks, visit https://afs.ca.uky.edu/poultry/poultry-publications or contact the Montgomery County Cooperative Extension Service.

 

 

AG News - April 22, 2024

 

2024 Montgomery County CAIP Cost-Share Signups Have Begun

The Montgomery County Conservation District is taking applications for the 2024 Montgomery County Agricultural Investment Program (CAIP Cost-Share Program). This program is to assist Montgomery County farmers in making important farm investments. Applications are available at the Montgomery County Conservation District Office located at 509 Willin Way, Suite 2 in Mt. Sterling. There office hours are Monday – Friday 8:00 AM to 4:30 PM. Eligible Cost-Share Investment Areas include: Agricultural Diversification; Large Animal-Small Animal; Farm Infrastructure; Fencing and On-Farm Water; Forage and Grain Improvement; Innovative Ag Systems; On-Farm Energy; Poultry and Other Fowl; Ag Tech and Leadership Development; Value Added and Marketing. The application period will begin Thursday, April 18^th and the deadline to apply will be Friday, May 10th. All applications will be scored, based on the scoring criteria set by the Kentucky Agricultural Development Board. For more information and questions contact: Nancy Montgomery at 859-498-5487 or email: mccdky@gmail.com. Eligible Cost-Share Investment Areas can be researched at https://www.kyagr.com/agpolicy/2024-Program-Guidelines-and-Applications.html.

Beef Quality and Care Assurance Training – April 30

 

There will be a Beef Quality and Care Assurance (BQCA) training on Tuesday, April 30 at 6:00 PM in Mt. Sterling at the Montgomery County Extension Office. The BQCA training focuses on insuring quality beef production and is also a requirement of farmers selling in CPH-45 sales. This training is also a requirement of some of the categories of the Montgomery County CAIP program. Anyone interested is welcome to attend.

 

2024 Montgomery County Farmers’ Market Vendor Applications Available

The 2024 Montgomery County Farmers’ Market Vendor Applications are now available at the

Montgomery County Extension Office. If you plan to be a vendor at the this

year’s market, you must complete and submit the application and fees along with

copies of any permits, certificates and licenses that you have obtained, enabling you

to legally sell special items or give processed samples of products. Please submit

all of these items to the Montgomery County Extension Office by the deadline of

June 1, 2024.

 

Controlling Flies on the Farm

Flies can be a problem on farms during the summertime especially around livestock. Some warm weather and breeding sites is all they need to reproduce in large numbers but there are ways to reduce fly problems.

For fly control on cattle in pastures, ear tags containing insecticides should provide season-long protection as the tags move with the animals from field to field. This is a good alternative if cattle are bring moved often. These work especially well for horn fly control and can reduce irritation from face flies.

If you are using back-rubbers, either oilers or dust bags, for control in more permanent pastures, it is important to check them regularly. The dusts can cake up especially after rains so it is important to make sure dust is loose in the bag and dusting the animals as they move under it. Oilers typically need to be checked as well because they can dry out. Checking them regularly will ensure they are providing a high level of control for your cattle.

Another area where fly control can be a problem is around barns and feedlots. It takes very little dropped feed mixed with some hay or manure to make excellent breeding sites for house and stable flies.

Houseflies are a nuisance and they can also carry a number of diseases of humans and animals as they move from site to site. The stable fly is a little bit larger than a house fly and is a blood feeder. They tend to feed on the lower legs of animals. If you see cattle stomping their feet and you look at their legs you will likely see stable flies feeding. The painful bites they produce reduce the efficiency of your animals.

Fly control really is based on manure management and removal of breeding sites. Warm weather and frequent rains that keep even small amounts of manure and feed wet, it is important to remove these breeding sites as quickly as possible to reduce fly numbers as quickly as possible. Residual fly sprays or fly baits can be used to knock down fly problems but are only a temporary solution.

 

Manage Pastures for Optimum Production

 

Good pasture management practices are essential to increasing quality livestock forages by reducing undesirable weeds and plants. The goal is to encourage growth of a vigorous, dense stand of desirable forage grasses, yet limit weed germination and growth. Unwanted plants can germinate in thin pasture stands and are more likely to become established within these areas.

Some weedy plants have nutritional value, especially those used in the early vegetative growth stages such as chicory and crabgrass.  On the other hand plants, such as poison hemlock, are potentially toxic to grazing animals.  Then there are invasive weeds, such as musk thistle and tall ironweed, that crowd out desirable grasses and legumes.

Good pasture management starts with good grazing practices and timely mowing.  Well-timed mowing helps prevent the production and spread of new weed seeds.  Where perennial weeds dominate, frequent mowing can curtail weeds’ growth by depleting their root reserves but is often not feasible or economical.  A primary practice to avoid is overgrazing that reduces the competitive capabilities of desirable forage species.

Maintaining optimum soil fertility levels is another practice to promote growth of desirable forages.  Take routine soil tests to ensure the optimum soil pH and nutrient levels for pasture growth and quality.  Also, keep fence rows and adjacent fields free of troublesome weeds, such as musk thistle and poison hemlock, which produce abundant seed.

In some cases, herbicides may be the most practical weed-control method.  For best results, determine the types of weeds to be controlled, their life cycles and the best time of year to apply them.  Two generally preferred times of year to apply herbicides in grass pastures are in the fall to early winter months or in the early spring when plants begin active growth. Avoid applying herbicides in mid-summer, because many common products for pastures have the potential to injure nearby, sensitive broadleaf crops like tobacco, vegetables and ornamentals, especially under unusually high air temperatures and humidity.

 

 

04-15-2024 Ag News

 

Farm and home safety tips for stormy weather

It’s that time of year when we get more thunderstorms. Weather patterns are more active, and storms thrive with the moisture and rapidly rising warm air that is very common during the transition to warmer seasons.

Stormy conditions also increase the potential for lightning to strike people at work or play outdoors and, possibly, while they’re inside a building. Although thunderstorms are more common during the spring and summer, they can take place all year long and at all hours.

All thunderstorms produce lightning. Sometimes called “nature’s fireworks,” lightning is produced by the buildup and discharge of electrical energy between negatively and positively charged areas. An average lightning charge can provide enough energy to keep a 100-watt light bulb burning for more than three months.

Other dangers associated with thunderstorms are heavy rains that lead to flash floods, strong winds, hail and tornadoes. These weather conditions can injure or kill people and pets, as well as cause billions of dollars in crop and property damage.

Thunder is the result of a shock wave caused by rapid heating and cooling of air near the lightning channel.

If you want to estimate the miles between yourself and a lightning flash, simply count seconds between lightning and thunder and divide this time by five. Sound travels about a mile every five seconds. So if you count 30 seconds between lightning and thunder, lightning has flashed within six miles of you. This puts you within lightning striking distance, according to scientific research.

The most important thunderstorm safety precaution is simply to be aware of an approaching thunderstorm and move to a safe shelter before the storm arrives in your area. If you see lightning, hear thunder, observe dark clouds, or your hair stands on end, immediately go inside a sturdy, completely enclosed building, home or a hard-top vehicle with closed windows. Avoid picnic shelters, sports dugouts, covered patios, carports and open garages. Small wooden, vinyl or metal sheds provide little to no protection.

Since metal conducts lightning, don’t touch metal inside or outdoors; drop metal backpacks; release golf clubs, tennis rackets, fishing gear and tools, and get off bicycles and motorcycles.

Lightning can strike water and travel a long distance in it. So standing in water, even in rubber boots, isn’t safe during a thunderstorm. It’s also unsafe to go swimming, wading, snorkeling and scuba diving if lightning is present. If you’re in a small boat during a storm, crouch in the middle and stay away from metal items and surfaces.

Crouch down in an open, exposed area and stay away from tall objects, such as trees.  Remember to stay away from clotheslines, fences, exposed sheds and other elevated items that can conduct lightning.

If you’re indoors, remember lightning can enter buildings as a direct strike, through pipes and wires extending outside, or through the ground. Telephone use is a leading cause of indoor lightning injuries in America, because the charges can travel a long way in telephone and electrical wires, especially in rural areas.

Windows and doors provide a direct path for lightning to enter a building; so avoid them. During a thunderstorm, stay away from laundry appliances as they are connected to plumbing and electrical systems. Dryer vents offer a direct electrical pathway outdoors.

On the farm, ungrounded wire fences can put livestock at risk when lightning strikes. Surprisingly, lightning can travel almost two miles along an ungrounded fence. According to the National Ag Safety Database, you can ground wooden or steel posts that are set in concrete by driving ½-inch or ¾ inch steel rods or pipes next to fence posts at least 5 feet into the ground, at intervals of no more than 150 feet along the fence. You should securely fasten the grounding rods so that all the fence wires come into contact with them. You can also substitute galvanized steel fence posts for wooden posts at intervals of no more than 150 feet. You should not however, ground electric fences in this manner, because they have a direct path to the ground in their circuitry. More tips for lightning protection on the farm are available on the National Ag Safety Database website, http://nasdonline.org/1882/d001825/lightning-protection-for-farms.html.

Also remember pet safety. Lightning can easily strike animals chained to a tree or wire runner. Doghouses generally aren’t protected against lightning strikes. Sources:  Matt Dixon, UK Agricultural Meteorologist; National Weather Service, National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration, National Ag Safety Database.

For more information, contact your Montgomery County Cooperative Extension Service.

 

Growing asparagus

Asparagus is a wonderful vegetable, it can be prepared in so many different ways, it is full of nutrients, and by the end of April, there should plenty of asparagus available. It is an easy crop to grow and is very popular, but different than most vegetables because it is a perennial.

If done correctly, one planting of asparagus crowns can keep you in asparagus for 20 to 25 years.  Asparagus produces something other than the little spear you see in the grocery store. That spear is actually the sprout; it’s the tip. After you stop harvesting, you have to let it grow to a ferny, shrub-like plant, six-to-eight feet in height, to make more food for the sprouts you will harvest next year.

It is easy to grow in the home garden and doesn’t have a tremendous amount of disease or insect pressure. Asparagus is a slow reward because when you plant it, you are generally not going to get any that first season; it will produce spears, but you should not cut them. There will be only minimal production the second season and by year three, you will have a six-to-eight week harvest season.

When it comes to selecting asparagus, you should look for all-male varieties. Asparagus is seedling propagated, even in an all-male variety, there will be a few female plants. The ratio is less if they don’t spend energy producing flowers and little berries, and that means more asparagus for you. 

As far as varieties are concerned, Purple Passion is an older variety. Purple Pacifica has less lignin, is less fibrous, making it more crispy and crunchy, but it will turn green when you cook it. The sugar content is higher and it is great broken up in salads.

You should plant your asparagus six-to-eight inches deep and cover it as it grows. Asparagus is pretty much the first vegetable you can get out of the garden each season and is beloved because of the flavor. It tastes so much better when it is fresh-picked and hasn’t been on a truck for weeks. Source: Jamie Dockery, UK extension horticulture agent.

Contact your Montgomery County office of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service for information on growing asparagus.  

 

AG News - April 1, 2024

 

Pesticide safety in and around your home

Our homes are our private sanctuaries, where we can escape and unwind. We want to protect and preserve our homes and our privacy at all costs. When insect pests begin to appear in and around our home, they can breach or invade that privacy. Depending on the severity of the pest problem, some of us may have to use pesticides to regain control of our gardens, landscapes and homes. It is important that we practice wise, safe pesticide applications to protect ourselves and our families.

Here are some tips to minimize your and your families risks from improper pesticide use.

• Match the pesticide to the pest. Know what insect pest is causing the damage, health and safety risks or irritation. Only use pesticides labeled to control that insect. If you use the incorrect pesticide, not only will the problem pests not go away, but you have wasted money using the wrong pesticide and put you and your family at unnecessary risk to pesticide exposure. At the extension office, we can help you correctly identify insects and choose the right pesticide to treat your problem.
• Read pesticide labels and follow them. Pesticide labels are law, and you must follow them. The label directions are for your safety. If its intended placement is not on the label, it may not be safe or legal to apply an insecticide in a certain location. Also, some pesticides are not approved to be use in or around homes. By reading and following the pesticide labels, you can have the confidence that the product was safely applied and will effectively manage problem pests.
• Do not mix pesticides and household items. Make sure the containers, spouts, funnels, wands and other items you plan to use to apply the pesticide are only used for that purpose. Do not reuse these items for other household reasons once you have applied pesticides in them. Only mix the exact amount of pesticide needed to control your problem. Do not pour unused pesticides down sinks or toilets.
• Dress for the job. By wearing the proper attire, you can reduce your pesticide exposure. Some pesticide labels will clearly state the personal protective equipment that you should wear to apply the product, but some won’t. At a minimum, you should wear plastic gloves, shoes, socks and long pants and long-sleeve T-shirts when applying a pesticide.
• Remove children and pets from the area before applying pesticides and during application. Many labels will specify when it is safe for people and animals to return to the application area, but if not, at least keep them out of the space until the pesticide has had time to thoroughly dry.
• Clean up. Wash and rinse reusable PPE like gloves and goggles. Wash the clothes you were wearing separately from the rest of your family’s clothes. Wash your face and hands, especially before eating, drinking or using tobacco products.

Properly store pesticides. Most labels will say how to store the pesticide. At a minimum, make sure it is in a location that is out of reach from children or pets and stored at the correct temperature. Most pesticides should be stored in an area that is above 40 degrees F and out of extreme hot or cold temperatures. Source: Ric Bessin, UK extension entomologist. For more information on managing insect pests and correct pesticide use, contact the Montgomery County office of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service.

 

Home vegetable gardening publication is a must have

 

Each spring, we get a lot of questions about gardening and growing vegetables. One of the first places we direct people to is the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service’s ID-128, Home Vegetable Gardening in Kentucky. Some people refer to this publication as the Bible for home vegetable gardening in this state because it provides educational foundation for successful gardening in Kentucky.

Home Vegetable Gardening in Kentucky is available in all county extension offices.  It is also available online and can be downloaded to any device. The 50-page book has information to benefit new and seasoned gardeners. The publication walks you through plant selection, soil preparation, site selection, crop rotation, crops, planting dates, diseases, pests and their treatment options for organic and conventional operations. You can also find information on gardening small spaces, intensive gardening, container gardening and how to extend the growing season.

The booklet covers the ins and outs of caring for your vegetables during the growing season and how to store your vegetables after harvest.

Home Vegetable Gardening in Kentucky and is available online at http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agcomm/pubs.

Contact the Montgomery County office of the UK Cooperative Extension Service for information on gardening.

 

Basics of on-farm animal mortality composting

 

Despite adequate care and management, animal mortalities occasionally occur on farms. When they do, Kentucky livestock producers have few options to safely dispose of the carcass. On-farm composting is a low-cost, effective way to dispose of dead animals without contaminating waterways or causing a smelly nuisance.

Two materials are needed for composting: the carcass and a bulking agent. Bulking agents are things like sawdust, wood shavings, and wood mulch. These materials provide a source of carbon to offset the nitrogen from the carcass. They soak up liquid produced during decomposition, regulate airflow through the pile and keep scavengers away. Usually, producers will layer 2 feet of bulking agent on the bottom, the carcass and at least another 2 feet of the bulking material on top of and on the sides of the carcass. A front-end loader is helpful to transport the carcass and bulking agent and create the pile.

Ideally, you will have an enclosed composting facility. A roof keeps the pile from getting too wet and prevents runoff. Sidewalls or fences can protect the decomposing carcass from scavengers and pests. Concrete floors keep compost from entering ground water. The size of the pile will depend on the type of facility size and the type of bulking agent and equipment you use. A typical pile for a large animal (more than 1,000 pounds) should have a height of approximately 6 feet.

Moisture and temperature control is critical to proper composting. If the material is too wet, it could pollute surface or ground water. You can check the moisture by squeezing material in your hand. If it drips, it is too wet. If your palm does not get wet when squeezed, the material is too dry. Temperatures inside the compost pile need to be between 140-160 degrees F. You can purchase a long-stemmed compost thermometer to make sure the pile is reaching the right temperature.

The compost should not emit foul odors at any point in the process. If it starts to smell bad, then something is wrong. You will need to check the pile’s moisture content, temperature, airflow, carbon-to-nitrogen ratio and the amount of material covering the carcass to determine the problem and resolve the issue.

If done correctly, the carcass should decompose within three to six months. You can apply the compost to cropland as fertilizer or reuse it to compost other livestock mortalities.

More information on on-farm dead animal composting is available in the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service publication ID 166: On-farm composting of Animal Mortalities. It is available online at https://afs.ca.uky.edu/files/on-farm_composting_of_animal_mortalities.pdf  or by contacting the Montgomery County Extension office. Source: Steve Higgins, director of environmental compliance for the Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station

 

Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expressions, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability.

 

 

 

AG News - March 18, 2024

Not Enough to too Much…Managing Spring Grass

 

In March we often find ourselves wringing our hands waiting for grass growth to start and a short time later our pastures are out of control!  Spring can often be one of the most difficult times of the year for graziers. Grass growth goes from nonexistent to excessive in a matter of weeks and if you are properly stocked grazing livestock can have a hard time keeping up with it.  The following suggestions can help you to stay in control spring growth. 

• Implement rotational grazing.  To fully utilize the spring flush of pasture growth YOU must be in control of grazing.  In a continuous grazing system, the cows are in charge.  By utilizing rotational stocking, you start to make the decisions. Implementing a rotational stocking system may be as simple as closing some gates or stringing up some polywire. 
• Start grazing before you think the pastures are ready.  One of the most common mistakes that graziers make is waiting too long to start grazing.  If you wait until the first paddock is ready to graze, by the time you reach the last paddock it will be out of control.  Starting early allows you to establish a “grazing wedge” (Figure 1). 
• Rotate animals rapidly. It is important to realize that grazing pastures closely and repeatedly as they initiate growth in early spring can reduce production for he for the entire season. Therefore, it is important to keep animals moving rapidly through the system. The general rule is that if grass is growing rapidly then your rotation should be rapid.  This will allow you to stay ahead of the grass by topping it off and keeping it in a vegetative state.    
• Do not apply spring nitrogen. Applying nitrogen in the spring will make the problem of too much grass at once even worse.  In many cases you are better off to apply nitrogen in late summer or early fall to stimulate growth for winter stockpiling.  
• Remove most productive paddocks from rotation and harvest for hay.  Graze all paddocks until the pasture growth is just about to get away from you and then remove those productive paddocks from your rotation and allow them to accumulate growth for hay harvest (Figure 2).
• Increase stocking rate in the spring.  If it is possible, a good option for utilizing spring growth is to increase your stocking rate.  This will allow you to harvest more of the available forage and convert it into a saleable product.  This can be done by adding some stockers or thin cull cows to your rotation and then selling them when pasture growth slows. If you are in a fall calving system, you are better positioned to take advantage of spring forage growth since the calves will be larger. 
• Even out seasonal distribution of forage by adding a warm-season grass.  Adding a well-adapted warm-season grass that produces the majority of its growth in July and August would allow you to concentrate grazing on your cool-season paddocks during periods of rapid growth (spring flush).  After cool-season grass growth is slowed by higher temperatures in late spring and early summer, animals can be shifted in the warm-season paddocks for summer grazing.  
• Bush-hog out of control pastures.  The benefits of clipping include maintaining pastures in a vegetative state, encouraging regrowth, and controlling weeds.  Clipping pastures costs money, so make sure that the primary reason for bush-hogging is pasture management, not aesthetics. 
• Stockpile out of control pastures for summer grazing.  Although forage quality decreases as the plant matures, the quality of spring stockpiled pasture is sufficient for dry cows and in some cases can result in reasonable gains on growing animals (Figure 4) during the summer months.  This is especially true if using novel endophyte tall fescue and the pastures were clipped at the early boot stage to promote vegetive regrowth.  This could be a cost-effective and simple way to provide additional grazing during the summer months. 

When it comes to grazing operations, there is not one size that fits all. What works for you may not work for your neighbor. The key is figuring out what works on your farm and implementing it in a timely manner. Hopefully one or more of the above tips will help you deal with the “quandary of spring grass”! Source: Chris D. Teutsch, University of Kentucky Research and Education Center at Princeton.

 

 

Preventing Grass Tetany

 

As spring approaches and grass begins to grow, grazing livestock may experience a forage-related problem known as grass tetany, grass staggers, lactation tetany, or hypomagnesemia. Grass tetany is a metabolic disorder caused by reduced magnesium (Mg) levels in the animal’s blood. In cattle, it generally affects older, lactating cows but can also be seen in dry cows, young cows, and in rare cases, growing calves. Symptoms often observed include nervousness, lack of coordination, muscular spasms, staggering, convulsions, coma, milk yield decrease, and death. If you suspect cattle are stricken with grass tetany, a veterinarian should be contacted immediately as early treatment can save animals.

Young cool-season grasses and small grains are commonly associated with this disorder. Grass tetany occurs most frequently in the spring, but may occur in the fall and winter when these forages start growing rapidly again or when cereal grain forages are grazed High levels of nitrogen (N) and potassium (K) in the soil can increase the risk of grass tetany because they reduce the availability of magnesium to the animal. Farmers should refrain from placing cattle in a field that has been recently fertilized or has resulted in the disease before. Pastures where a significant amount of manure has been applied often have excessive potassium fertility increasing the risk to grass tetany. A farmer can also increase the legume content in his/her pastures with clover or alfalfa since they have higher magnesium levels to compensate for the lack of it in the new lush grass.

Feeding high magnesium or high “mag” mineral supplements is the preferred method to reduce the occurrence of grass tetany. High “mag” mineral mixes are available at most feed stores and contain higher inclusions of magnesium oxide than other complete mineral mixes. Cattle should begin consuming this high “mag” mineral during the late winter months and into early spring when new plant growth is starting. In late spring once temperatures are consistently above 60ºF, a producer can quit feeding the high “mag” mixtures. High mag mineral does not need to be fed year round, but is not problematic if it is. Free-choice high mag mineral should contain 12 to 15% magnesium from magnesium oxide. Cattle need to consume four ounces of the mineral supplement daily. Magnesium oxide is unpalatable, which can result in low mineral intake. Co-product  feedstuffs such as dried distillers grains, molasses or a flavoring agent is added to the mineral mix to increase palatability.

If free-choice mineral is not a viable option, producers can also mix their own supplement by adding the appropriate amount of magnesium oxide to another palatable feedstuff, i.e. feeding in or with 1 to 2 lbs. of corn or other by-product that provides 20-25 grams of magnesium. For dairy cows, magnesium oxide can be added to the grain mix to provide an intake of 20 g of magnesium per cow per day. Magnesium oxide may be routinely used as a buffer in these grain mixes for dairy cows, so producers should check with their nutritionist to make sure adequate amounts and proper sources are being used to prevent grass tetany.

Besides magnesium oxide, another source of Mg is magnesium sulfate, which is more palatable than magnesium oxide. The downside to feeding magnesium sulfate is it can be an issue where cattle are consuming high sulfate water or other feedstuffs high in sulfur. Producers that are feeding corn co-products (distiller’s grains or corn gluten feed), adding additional sulfur to the diet in the form of magnesium sulfate, or have high sulfur water could create a sulfur toxicity.

Grass tetany blocks provide magnesium similar to that of a mineral supplement. The major disadvantage of this method is that all the animals may not consume an adequate amount of the block. Multiple blocks should be available with one block per ten cows.

The season for grass tetany will be developing as temperatures rise and grasses begin to grow. To reduce health problems and livestock death to this disorder, it is important to provide a quality high “mag” mineral or supplement containing Magnesium oxide.

 

 

 

AG News - February 26, 2024

 

SPRING LAWN MOWING IS IMPORTANT

 

The first spring mowing, usually in late March, begins your most important annual lawn duties. The first mowing makes the lawn look spring-like and very attractive. Subsequent regular mowing hardens the grass for drought and heat stresses later on. So when the first clump of grass grows above the mowing height, mow, even if a lot of the yard doesn’t need to be mowed yet.

Not all grasses start growing at the same time. Grass on northern slopes, or in heavy clay soil, will start growing several days later than normal. Grass that wasn’t fertilized in the fall or early

spring also has a delayed growth.

Following recommendations for mowing height and frequency will make your lawn-care duties easier and result in a more attractive yard. If your mower has a fixed, all-year height, set it at 2.5 inches. However, if you can easily vary the height, set it at 1.5 to 2 inches for the first several times you mow this spring. The shorter mowing height will help remove a lot of the winter-burned, brown leaves. And by exposing more dark green growth, it will transfigure your lawn into the most uniform, attractive in the neighborhood. Move the height up to 2.5 inches after you mow the grass several times.

To protect your grass from summer heat and drought injury, raise the mower height to 3 or 3.5 inches. However, remember that high grass, especially tall fescue, tends to fall over and mat down during hot summer weather causing increased summer disease problems. In the fall, lower the mowing height to 2.5 inches.

For the winter, you might want to lower it again to 1.5 to 2 inches. This shorter height improves the turf’s winter and early spring color. Never let grass go through the winter at a height of 4 or more inches, because it will mat down and become diseased.

Generally speaking, mow often enough to remove no more than one-third to one-half of the grass height. If your mower is set for 2 inches, mow again when grass height reaches approximately 3 inches.  Be sure not to scalp the lawn by mowing off most of the green leaves.

For tall fescue lawns, a rule of thumb is to mow at five-day intervals during the spring, and at seven-day intervals the rest of the year.  If you have a Kentucky bluegrass lawn, a seven-day interval usually is sufficient at a 2.5-inch mowing height. You probably can extend that interval during hot, dry weather.

Don’t mow by the calendar. Instead, watch the grass grow, and mow frequently enough to remove no more than one-third to one-half of grass height.

 

10 things you should know about cockroaches

Cockroaches are one of the most common pests to infest homes and apartments. They get into homes by hitching a ride on items such as grocery bags, food cartons and furniture and by using their flat, brownish bodies to slip in through crevices and cracks in buildings. While large cockroaches may seem the most frightening, it is the smaller ones that pose the biggest concern to human health.

Here are 10 things you should know about cockroaches:

1. Roommates.  Cockroaches and humans have lived together for thousands of years, and it is unlikely to change any time soon.

2. There are more than 4,500 species of cockroaches.  However, only a handful cause problems to humans. The most troublesome is the German cockroach, which is only about 0.5 inches long and is the one most commonly found indoors.

3. Cockroaches make great pets.  The Madagascar hissing cockroach is a large cockroach that makes a wonderful pet. They are easy to maintain, quiet, do not pose a threat to human health and don’t take up much space.

4. Scavengers.  Cockroaches LOVE any and all food. They will feed on whatever they can find including human food and pet food. They love to hide in warm, moist areas and are attracted to places with poor sanitation practices and food preparation areas.   Bathrooms and kitchens are their favorite hiding spots.

5. Two main groups.  Cockroaches are generally grouped based on if they live inside or outside of the home. The species that live outside are often larger (e.g., American Cockroach), while the indoor species tend to be smaller (e.g., German cockroach). While the larger roaches can be more frightening to people, the smaller species cause most of the human health problems.

6. Health importance-disease transmission.  Due to their ability to easily move between food/food preparation surfaces and waste bins, cockroaches can easily spread many diseases including leprosy, salmonella, dysentery, E. coli, urinary tract infections, tuberculosis and pneumonia.

7. Health importance-allergies and asthma.  Cockroaches produce a suite of potent allergens to which many people are sensitive. These allergens can lead to the development of asthma and cause asthma attacks when not properly mitigated. About a quarter of the population is allergic to cockroaches.

8. Cockroach management is tricky. Since they are mostly nocturnal, you may not see cockroaches until a significant infestation exists. However, it is possible to eliminate cockroaches with proper identification and use of the correct products. Commercially available cockroach baits are very effective at controlling the pests, but it is often best to call a pest control professional.

9. Early detection makes management easier.  Knowing the preferred locations of where cockroaches like to hide; warm, dark, moist areas, especially in kitchens and bathrooms, will help in early detection. Often one of the first places you will find them is around and behind the refrigerator.

10. Sanitation is important. Since they are scavengers, if there isn’t enough food for them to eat then they will be easier to control. You can reduce your risk of getting cockroaches by keeping food in secure containers, cleaning up immediately after meals and picking up pet food.  More information about cockroaches is available in the University of Kentucky Department of Entomology’s ENTFACT 614. It is available online at https://entomology.ca.uky.edu/ef614 or by contacting the  Montgomery County office of the UK Cooperative Extension Service.

 

DECEASED ANIMAL REMOVAL

If you need to have dead farm animals removed from your Montgomery County Farm, Call Mike Hall at 606-359-4407. This program is sponsored by the Montgomery County Fiscal Court with partial funding from the Governor’s Office of Agriculture Policy and approved by the Montgomery County Agriculture Development Council.

 

 

AG News - June 5, 2023

 

Controlling Flies on the Farm

Flies can be a problem on farms during the summertime especially around livestock. Some warm weather and breeding sites is all they need to reproduce in large numbers but there are ways to reduce fly problems.

For fly control on cattle in pastures, ear tags containing insecticides should provide season-long protection as the tags move with the animals from field to field. This is a good alternative if cattle are bring moved often. These work especially well for horn fly control and can reduce irritation from face flies.

If you are using back-rubbers, either oilers or dust bags, for control in more permanent pastures, it is important to check them regularly. The dusts can cake up especially after rains so it is important to make sure dust is loose in the bag and dusting the animals as they move under it. Oilers typically need to be checked as well because they can dry out. Checking them regularly will ensure they are providing a high level of control for your cattle.

Another area where fly control can be a problem is around barns and feedlots. It takes very little dropped feed mixed with some hay or manure to make excellent breeding sites for house and stable flies.

Houseflies are a nuisance and they can also carry a number of diseases of humans and animals as they move from site to site. The stable fly is a little bit larger than a house fly and is a blood feeder. They tend to feed on the lower legs of animals. If you see cattle stomping their feet and you look at their legs you will likely see stable flies feeding. The painful bites they produce reduce the efficiency of your animals.

Fly control really is based on manure management and removal of breeding sites. Warm weather and frequent rains that keep even small amounts of manure and feed wet, it is important to remove these breeding sites as quickly as possible to reduce fly numbers as quickly as possible. Residual fly sprays or fly baits can be used to knock down fly problems but are only a temporary solution.

 

Manage Pastures for Optimum Production

Good pasture management practices are essential to increasing quality livestock forages by reducing undesirable weeds and plants. The goal is to encourage growth of a vigorous, dense stand of desirable forage grasses, yet limit weed germination and growth. Unwanted plants can germinate in thin pasture stands and are more likely to become established within these areas.

Some weedy plants have nutritional value, especially those used in the early vegetative growth stages such as chicory and crabgrass.  On the other hand plants, such as poison hemlock, are potentially toxic to grazing animals.  Then there are invasive weeds, such as musk thistle and tall ironweed, that crowd out desirable grasses and legumes.

Good pasture management starts with good grazing practices and timely mowing.  Well-timed mowing helps prevent the production and spread of new weed seeds.  Where perennial weeds dominate, frequent mowing can curtail weeds’ growth by depleting their root reserves but is often not feasible or economical.  A primary practice to avoid is overgrazing that reduces the competitive capabilities of desirable forage species.

Maintaining optimum soil fertility levels is another practice to promote growth of desirable forages.  Take routine soil tests to ensure the optimum soil pH and nutrient levels for pasture growth and quality.  Also, keep fence rows and adjacent fields free of troublesome weeds, such as musk thistle and poison hemlock, which produce abundant seed.

In some cases, herbicides may be the most practical weed-control method.  For best results, determine the types of weeds to be controlled, their life cycles and the best time of year to apply them.  Two generally preferred times of year to apply herbicides in grass pastures are in the fall to early winter months or in the early spring when plants begin active growth. Avoid applying herbicides in mid-summer, because many common products for pastures have the potential to injure nearby, sensitive broadleaf crops like tobacco, vegetables and ornamentals, especially under unusually high air temperatures and humidity.

 

Harvesting blueberries and blackberries for full flavor

It’s almost summer, and that is prime harvest season for blueberries and blackberries, both of which have the potential to grow very well in Kentucky. Blueberries, which are native to North America, are ready to harvest from early June through early August. Blackberries are ready to harvest from mid-June to early October. These delicious fruits offer health benefits, but best of all, they capture the essence of summer in their sweetness.

Blueberries can be excellent choices for both home and commercial growing. They have the advantage of being as long-lived as fruit trees, with few pests or diseases. They also have a late blossom time, so frost rarely causes damage on well-chosen sites. Blackberries also have a long fruit-bearing life and will produce for a decade or longer in Kentucky.

Blueberries require an acidic soil, which means that most soils in Kentucky will need to be amended to properly suit their needs. They also require a high organic material content, so peat moss should be mixed with the soil at the time of planting. Do not substitute with other materials. Irrigation is necessary during the summer because blueberries have a shallow, limited root system. Insufficient irrigation can compromise both this year’s and next year’s crops.

Blackberries need to be pruned, fertilized and irrigated. Pruning varies, depending on the type of bramble; for specific information on the proper pruning for your blackberry canes, see the University of Kentucky’s publication, “Growing Blackberries and Raspberries in Kentucky.”  It’s available online at http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/ho/ho15/ho15.pdf or by contacting your local office of the UK Cooperative Extension Service.

Blueberries in a cluster do not ripen at the same time, and only fully ripe berries should be picked. Fruit need at least one to two days after turning blue to develop full flavor and can be left on the bush for up to 10 days without a loss in size. Flavor does not improve once the fruit is picked; consequently, blueberries should be left on the bush for as long as possible to develop sweetness and flavor.

For best results at harvest, pick carefully, rolling blueberries from the cluster with the thumb into the palm of the hand. Handle as little as possible to avoid rubbing off the bloom (the light waxy finish on the skin) and reduce bruising. Harvest only when berries are dry. Refrigerate promptly to slow ripening and decay.

Blackberries picked for commercial sale are picked “firm ripe,” but home growers have the luxury of picking soft, fully ripe and juicy fruit. Pick fruit twice a week, and during hot, rainy weeks, every other day. Harvest after the morning dew has dried. Pick carefully to avoid bruising the fruit, and, as with blueberries, refrigerate quickly to limit fruit rot. The sweetest, best tasting fruit is produced during dry, sunny weather when nights are cooler.

For more information, see UK’s publications on growing blueberries and blackberries available online at http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/ho/ho60/HO60.PDF and http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/ho/ho15/ho15.pdf, or contact the Montgomery County Cooperative Extension Service.

 

 

 

 

 

AG News - May 15, 2023

 

Spring Tornado Safety      

Each year, the United States experiences an average of 1,200 tornadoes. Many strike rural areas and cause little damage, and most have paths well under one mile in length and winds under 100 mph. However, a few tornadoes can become large and violent, with wind speeds approaching 200 mph, tracking tens of miles and leaving swaths of destruction and death. In Kentucky, tornadoes have occurred during every month of the year and at every hour of the day. However, they occur most frequently from March through June and typically between 3 and 10 PM. Nighttime tornadoes are often more dangerous as they are harder to see and most people are sleeping.

So what do you do if there is a tornado? How do you stay safe?

Before a Tornado

• Have a family tornado plan in place and practice a family tornado drill at least once a year.
• Have a predetermined place to meet after a disaster.
• Learn the signs of a tornado: dark, greenish sky; large hail; dark, low clouds; and loud roaring sounds.
• When a tornado watch is issued, practice your drill and check your safety supplies.
• Increase your situational awareness by monitoring the weather on weather.gov, watching local TV, or listening to NOAA Weather Radio.
• Flying debris is the greatest danger in tornadoes; so store protective coverings (e.g., mattress, helmets, sleeping bags, thick blankets, etc) in or next to your shelter space, ready to use on a few seconds notice.
• Tornado rule of thumb: Put as many walls and floors between you and the tornado as possible!
• If you are planning to build a house, consider an underground tornado shelter or an interior "safe room".
• In a mobile home: GET OUT! Go to a neighbor’s house, underground shelter, or a nearby permanent structure. Most tornadoes can destroy even tied-down mobile homes.

During a Tornado

• Wear a bicycle or motorcycle helmet to protect your head and neck or cover your head with a thick book.
• In a house with a basement: Avoid windows. Get in the basement and under some type of sturdy protection (heavy table or workbench), or cover yourself with a mattress or sleeping bag. Know where very heavy objects rest on the floor above (pianos, refrigerators, dressers, etc.) and do not go under them. They may fall down through a weakened floor and crush you.
• In a house without a basement, a dorm, or an apartment: Avoid windows. Go to the lowest floor, in a small interior room (like a bathroom or closet), under a stairwell, or in an interior hallway with no windows. Crouch as low as possible to the floor, facing down. A bath tub may offer a shell of partial protection. Even in an interior room, you should cover yourself with some sort of thick padding (mattress, blankets, etc.), to protect against falling debris in case the roof and ceiling fail.
• In a car or truck: If you are caught by extreme winds or flying debris, park the car as quickly and safely as possible - out of the traffic lanes. Stay in the car with the seat belt on. Put your head down below the windows; cover your head with your hands and a blanket, coat, or other cushion if possible. If you can safely get noticeably lower than the level of the roadway, leave your car and lie in that area. Avoid seeking shelter under bridges.
• In the open outdoors: lie flat and face-down on low ground, protecting the back of your head with your arms. Get as far away from trees and cars as you can.

After a Tornado

• Remain calm and alert, and listen to the radio or TV for instructions from authorities.
• Keep your family together and wait for emergency personnel to arrive.
• Carefully render aid to those who are injured.
• Stay away from downed power lines.
• Watch your step to avoid broken glass, nails, and other sharp objects.
• Stay out of any heavily damaged houses or buildings.
• Do not use matches or lighters, there might be leaking natural gas pipes or fuel tanks nearby.

By Jane Marie Wix - National Weather Service Jackson, KY (in coordination with Kentucky Emergency Management)

 

Container gardening

Not everyone has acreage or land where they can just dig in the soil. As long as you have a sunny spot, whether it be a balcony or parking lot, if you can get sunlight, you can grow flowers or vegetables in containers. It isn’t difficult.   

Just about any container will do, but the smaller the container, you will be more of a slave to it. Unless you work from home, are a stay at home parent, or retired, small containers do not make any sense. Don’t use anything smaller than half of a bourbon barrel, 24 inches in diameter, if you are going to grow tomato plants. The more soil you can give that plant, relative to its size, the less water and maintenance you will have to do. 

You can grow anything in a container, but remember, the larger the plant the more challenging it is. Lettuce, radishes and plants that don’t grow tall, and don’t require a lot of water, are very easy to grow in containers. There is no denying, plants in containers depend on you for everything. Generally, watering is a daily chore and if you let plants dry out and become stressed, you will limit how much they can produce. 

Being in containers, plants don’t have access to the nutrients in natural soil, which is usually a potting soil or soil mix. You have the commitment of feeding or fertilizing on a regular basis.  Young people are very interested in horticulture right now. They usually live in apartments before owning a home, and that makes container gardening a perfect fit.   

Containers can be of any size or shape. Container gardens are elevated and do not contain native soil. Raised beds require much less watering than container gardening.  

One of the most popular questions at extension offices concerning container gardening is about blossom end rot, which is associated with tomatoes, and is technically a calcium deficiency. Blossom end rot is actually the lack of consistent watering, making it hard to grow a full-sized tomato in a container without running into issues. Plant breeders have gotten around that by developing container-bred varieties which are much shorter plants. Dwarf tomato plants get about two feet tall and need only about a third of the water that a full-size tomato plant requires. There are a multitude of varieties of other vegetables that are bred for container gardening.   

Contact your Montgomery County office of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service for information on container gardening. Source: Jamie Dockery, UK extension horticulture agent.

 

AG News - April 17, 2023

Farm and home safety tips for stormy weather

It’s that time of year when we get more thunderstorms. Weather patterns are more active, and storms thrive with the moisture and rapidly rising warm air that is very common during the transition to warmer seasons.

Stormy conditions also increase the potential for lightning to strike people at work or play outdoors and, possibly, while they’re inside a building. Although thunderstorms are more common during the spring and summer, they can take place all year long and at all hours.

All thunderstorms produce lightning. Sometimes called “nature’s fireworks,” lightning is produced by the buildup and discharge of electrical energy between negatively and positively charged areas. An average lightning charge can provide enough energy to keep a 100-watt light bulb burning for more than three months.

Other dangers associated with thunderstorms are heavy rains that lead to flash floods, strong winds, hail and tornadoes. These weather conditions can injure or kill people and pets, as well as cause billions of dollars in crop and property damage.

Thunder is the result of a shock wave caused by rapid heating and cooling of air near the lightning channel.

If you want to estimate the miles between yourself and a lightning flash, simply count seconds between lightning and thunder and divide this time by five. Sound travels about a mile every five seconds. So if you count 30 seconds between lightning and thunder, lightning has flashed within six miles of you. This puts you within lightning striking distance, according to scientific research.

The most important thunderstorm safety precaution is simply to be aware of an approaching thunderstorm and move to a safe shelter before the storm arrives in your area. If you see lightning, hear thunder, observe dark clouds, or your hair stands on end, immediately go inside a sturdy, completely enclosed building, home or a hard-top vehicle with closed windows. Avoid picnic shelters, sports dugouts, covered patios, carports and open garages. Small wooden, vinyl or metal sheds provide little to no protection.

Since metal conducts lightning, don’t touch metal inside or outdoors; drop metal backpacks; release golf clubs, tennis rackets, fishing gear and tools, and get off bicycles and motorcycles.

Lightning can strike water and travel a long distance in it. So standing in water, even in rubber boots, isn’t safe during a thunderstorm. It’s also unsafe to go swimming, wading, snorkeling and scuba diving if lightning is present. If you’re in a small boat during a storm, crouch in the middle and stay away from metal items and surfaces.

Crouch down in an open, exposed area and stay away from tall objects, such as trees.  Remember to stay away from clotheslines, fences, exposed sheds and other elevated items that can conduct lightning.

If you’re indoors, remember lightning can enter buildings as a direct strike, through pipes and wires extending outside, or through the ground. Telephone use is a leading cause of indoor lightning injuries in America, because the charges can travel a long way in telephone and electrical wires, especially in rural areas.

Windows and doors provide a direct path for lightning to enter a building; so avoid them. During a thunderstorm, stay away from laundry appliances as they are connected to plumbing and electrical systems. Dryer vents offer a direct electrical pathway outdoors.

On the farm, ungrounded wire fences can put livestock at risk when lightning strikes. Surprisingly, lightning can travel almost two miles along an ungrounded fence. According to the National Ag Safety Database, you can ground wooden or steel posts that are set in concrete by driving ½-inch or ¾ inch steel rods or pipes next to fence posts at least 5 feet into the ground, at intervals of no more than 150 feet along the fence. You should securely fasten the grounding rods so that all the fence wires come into contact with them. You can also substitute galvanized steel fence posts for wooden posts at intervals of no more than 150 feet. You should not however, ground electric fences in this manner, because they have a direct path to the ground in their circuitry. More tips for lightning protection on the farm are available on the National Ag Safety Database website, http://nasdonline.org/1882/d001825/lightning-protection-for-farms.html.

Also remember pet safety. Lightning can easily strike animals chained to a tree or wire runner. Doghouses generally aren’t protected against lightning strikes. Sources:  Matt Dixon, UK Agricultural Meteorologist; National Weather Service, National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration, National Ag Safety Database.

For more information, contact your Montgomery County Cooperative Extension Service.

 

Growing asparagus

Asparagus is a wonderful vegetable, it can be prepared in so many different ways, it is full of nutrients, and by the end of April, there should plenty of asparagus available. It is an easy crop to grow and is very popular, but different than most vegetables because it is a perennial.

If done correctly, one planting of asparagus crowns can keep you in asparagus for 20 to 25 years.  Asparagus produces something other than the little spear you see in the grocery store. That spear is actually the sprout; it’s the tip. After you stop harvesting, you have to let it grow to a ferny, shrub-like plant, six-to-eight feet in height, to make more food for the sprouts you will harvest next year.

It is easy to grow in the home garden and doesn’t have a tremendous amount of disease or insect pressure. Asparagus is a slow reward because when you plant it, you are generally not going to get any that first season; it will produce spears, but you should not cut them. There will be only minimal production the second season and by year three, you will have a six-to-eight week harvest season.

When it comes to selecting asparagus, you should look for all-male varieties. Asparagus is seedling propagated, even in an all-male variety, there will be a few female plants. The ratio is less if they don’t spend energy producing flowers and little berries, and that means more asparagus for you. 

As far as varieties are concerned, Purple Passion is an older variety. Purple Pacifica has less lignin, is less fibrous, making it more crispy and crunchy, but it will turn green when you cook it. The sugar content is higher and it is great broken up in salads.

You should plant your asparagus six-to-eight inches deep and cover it as it grows. Asparagus is pretty much the first vegetable you can get out of the garden each season and is beloved because of the flavor. It tastes so much better when it is fresh-picked and hasn’t been on a truck for weeks. Source: Jamie Dockery, UK extension horticulture agent.

Contact your Montgomery County office of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service for information on growing asparagus.  

 

 

AG News - April 10, 2023

Cattlemen’s Ribeye Drive Thru – April 21

Are you craving a Cattlemen’s Ribeye Sandwich? If so the Montgomery County Cattlemen’s Association is now taking orders to be picked up on Friday, April 21st from 11:00 AM to 1:00 PM. You may place an order for a Ribeye Steak Sandwich, Chips and an Ale-8 or Water by calling 859-498-8733. To help us plan please call in your order by 4:30 PM, Wednesday, April 19^th.

When you call just leave your Name, Number of Orders and the approximate time you will pick up your order. Orders can only be picked up between 11:00 AM and 1:00 PM on April 21st at the Montgomery County Extension Annex Garage located at 153 South Maysville Street. Follow the signs. Orders will be brought to your car when you drive up. The cost per order is $10.00. Cash or Card. Don’t miss out on this chance to get a Montgomery County Cattlemen’s Association Ribeye Sandwich!!!!

 

Stocking recreational fish ponds

Fishing is a wonderful warm-weather pastime many of us enjoy. At the extension office, we often receive calls in the spring and fall from landowners on how to properly stock recreational ponds with fish.

Pond owners can call farm supply stores during the spring and fall to find out when their live fish trucks may arrive. Fish are typically transported during cool weather to reduce handling stress. The fish are typically small and can be hauled short distances in large, water filled containers.

Kentucky Department of Fish and Wildlife Resources no longer stocks recreational ponds, but the department recommends the following fish species to establish a balanced fish population that will provide good pond fishing in about two years’ time. Bluegill (not hybrid bluegill) and largemouth bass form a predator-prey relationship where the prolific spawning of bluegill provide enough food to support a largemouth bass population. Largemouth bass consume some of the bluegill and control their overpopulation. Two years after you stock a pond, you should have largemouth bass at least a foot long and bluegill at least 6 inches in length. You can catch these fish provided they are stocked and harvested in the proper numbers.

You can stock redear sunfish and channel catfish as supplemental species if desired. Fish stocking rates are listed below:

Stock 400 fingering bluegill (1 to 2 inches long) per acre in the fall*

Stock 120 largemouth bass per acre in the spring.

50 channel catfish fingerlings may be stocked per acre in the fall if desired.

*40% of the bluegill (160 fingerings) may be substituted with redear sunfish (shell crackers) if desired. Redear sunfish only spawn once a year and will not provide an adequate food source for bass if stocked without bluegill.

It’s more difficult to maintain a balanced fish population in smaller ponds. You can be better off stocking ponds less than a half-acre in size with 50 -100 channel catfish fingerlings and fathead minnows for forage fish or feed them a commercial catfish feed instead.

It is important to stock only bluegill, largemouth bass, redear sunfish and channel catfish in ponds. You should not stock fish species such as crappie, hybrid sunfish, gizzard shad, golden shiners, bullhead catfish and yellow perch, as they may overpopulate small ponds. Ponds containing undesirable species often need to be drained or the entire fish population chemically eliminated and later restocked.

Restocking ponds that contain existing fish populations is challenging since fish fingerlings are typically small and easily consumed by larger fish. Buying large replacement fish may be expensive. Transferring fish from other ponds or lakes is not recommended, because it may introduce disease problems.

In time, many ponds may become overcrowded with small, stunted largemouth bass. Removing some of these small fish may correct the problem. However, these ponds may provide fewer but larger bluegill.

Ponds with overpopulated bluegill will produce many 2- to 3-inch long fish and often a few large largemouth bass that are hard to catch. You can add more largemouth bass to the pond to try to obtain a balanced population.

To maintain a proper balance among fish populations, a rule of thumb is to harvest 4 or 5 pounds of bluegill for every pound of largemouth bass removed.

More information on aquaculture topics is available at the Montgomery County office of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service. Source: Forrest Wynne, extension aquaculture specialist, Kentucky State University

 

Transplanting tips for vibrant gardens

Last time, we talked about how growing your own vegetables and flowers from seed indoors or under a protective covering outside can expand your choices. You can find that information at https://bit.ly/3dgPP7h.

When the chance of frost has passed, it’s time to think about transplanting your young plants to the garden. About two weeks before you do that, you should harden (toughen) them off to help them withstand the outside environment. To do so, begin reducing water and fertilizer (but don’t let them dry out) and expose them to lower temperatures by taking your plants outside. Bring them in at night if the temperature is expected to drop into the 40s. Also expose them gradually to brighter and brighter light outside. Start off protecting them from strong midday sun and then over the course of a few days move them into full sun conditions.

Transplanting will temporarily check a plant’s growth. Therefore, for successful transplanting, try to interrupt plant growth as little as possible. Follow these steps when transferring them to your garden:

1. Transplant on a shady day in late afternoon or in early evening to prevent wilting.

2. Soak transplants’ roots thoroughly an hour or two before setting them in the garden.

3. Handle the plants carefully. Avoid disturbing the roots. It is better to grasp plants by their leaves than their tender stems.

4. Dig a hole large enough to hold the roots. For most plants, keep the soil depth similar to how they were previously growing. Tomatoes and peppers can be transplanted more deeply, since they develop roots on parts of the stem that is submerged in the soil. Press soil firmly around the roots.

5. Pour one cup of  water around each plant and for a bonus start add some soluble fertilizer to the water (follow label directions).

6. Put more soil around each plant leaving a slight depression for water to collect.

7. Water the plants once or twice during their first week in the garden. If you didn’t fertilize at planting, add fertilizer to the water at some point during the first week or so of growth. Follow fertilizer label directions for when to add additional fertilizer.

8. Watch your garden thrive.

Source: Rick Durham, extension professor, Department of Horticulture

For more information about starting plants for your flower or vegetable garden, contact the Montgomery County office of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service.

 

TERMITES

From now through May, you might see swarms of winged termites, called swarmers, inside your home, signaling an infestation that can cause extensive and costly damage. Since swarmers are attracted to light, you often see them, or their shed wings, around windows, doors and light fixtures.

We also see winged ants in the springtime. By examining the insect you can learn whether it’s a termite or an ant. Termites have straight antennae; ants have elbowed antennae. Also, termites have uniform waists; ants have constricted waists between body regions. Termites have two pair of wings of equal size. Ants also have two pair of wings, but the forewings are longer than the hind wings.

Other signs of a termite infestation are pencil-thin mud “tubes” on inside and outside surfaces such as foundation walls, piers, sills and floor joists. Termites make these mud tunnels to travel between underground colonies and your home. Another sign of an infestation is damaged wood hollowed out along the grain with dried bits of mud or soil lining the feeding galleries.

Termite feeding, and resulting damage, can remain undetected in exposed wood because the outer surface usually is left intact.

You can reduce the risk of a termite attack by following these suggestions: Store wood off of the ground, Keep moisture from accumulating near the foundation,  Reduce humidity in crawl spaces, Store firewood, lumber or other wood debris away from the foundation, Don’t store wood in the crawl space, Sparingly use decorative wood chips and mulch, and Consider having your home treated by a professional pest control firm.

 

AG News - April 3, 2023

Pesticide safety in and around your home

Our homes are our private sanctuaries, where we can escape and unwind. We want to protect and preserve our homes and our privacy at all costs. When insect pests begin to appear in and around our home, they can breach or invade that privacy. Depending on the severity of the pest problem, some of us may have to use pesticides to regain control of our gardens, landscapes and homes. It is important that we practice wise, safe pesticide applications to protect ourselves and our families.

Here are some tips to minimize your and your families risks from improper pesticide use.

• Match the pesticide to the pest. Know what insect pest is causing the damage, health and safety risks or irritation. Only use pesticides labeled to control that insect. If you use the incorrect pesticide, not only will the problem pests not go away, but you have wasted money using the wrong pesticide and put you and your family at unnecessary risk to pesticide exposure. At the extension office, we can help you correctly identify insects and choose the right pesticide to treat your problem.
• Read pesticide labels and follow them. Pesticide labels are law, and you must follow them. The label directions are for your safety. If its intended placement is not on the label, it may not be safe or legal to apply an insecticide in a certain location. Also, some pesticides are not approved to be use in or around homes. By reading and following the pesticide labels, you can have the confidence that the product was safely applied and will effectively manage problem pests.
• Do not mix pesticides and household items. Make sure the containers, spouts, funnels, wands and other items you plan to use to apply the pesticide are only used for that purpose. Do not reuse these items for other household reasons once you have applied pesticides in them. Only mix the exact amount of pesticide needed to control your problem. Do not pour unused pesticides down sinks or toilets.
• Dress for the job. By wearing the proper attire, you can reduce your pesticide exposure. Some pesticide labels will clearly state the personal protective equipment that you should wear to apply the product, but some won’t. At a minimum, you should wear plastic gloves, shoes, socks and long pants and long-sleeve T-shirts when applying a pesticide.
• Remove children and pets from the area before applying pesticides and during application. Many labels will specify when it is safe for people and animals to return to the application area, but if not, at least keep them out of the space until the pesticide has had time to thoroughly dry.
• Clean up. Wash and rinse reusable PPE like gloves and goggles. Wash the clothes you were wearing separately from the rest of your family’s clothes. Wash your face and hands, especially before eating, drinking or using tobacco products.

Properly store pesticides. Most labels will say how to store the pesticide. At a minimum, make sure it is in a location that is out of reach from children or pets and stored at the correct temperature. Most pesticides should be stored in an area that is above 40 degrees F and out of extreme hot or cold temperatures. Source: Ric Bessin, UK extension entomologist. For more information on managing insect pests and correct pesticide use, contact the Montgomery County office of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service.

 

Home vegetable gardening publication is a must have

Each spring, we get a lot of questions about gardening and growing vegetables. One of the first places we direct people to is the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service’s ID-128, Home Vegetable Gardening in Kentucky. Some people refer to this publication as the Bible for home vegetable gardening in this state because it provides educational foundation for successful gardening in Kentucky.

Home Vegetable Gardening in Kentucky is available in all county extension offices.  It is also available online and can be downloaded to any device. The 50-page book has information to benefit new and seasoned gardeners. The publication walks you through plant selection, soil preparation, site selection, crop rotation, crops, planting dates, diseases, pests and their treatment options for organic and conventional operations. You can also find information on gardening small spaces, intensive gardening, container gardening and how to extend the growing season.

The booklet covers the ins and outs of caring for your vegetables during the growing season and how to store your vegetables after harvest.

Home Vegetable Gardening in Kentucky and is available online at http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agcomm/pubs.

Contact the Montgomery County office of the UK Cooperative Extension Service for information on gardening.

 

Basics of on-farm animal mortality composting

Despite adequate care and management, animal mortalities occasionally occur on farms. When they do, Kentucky livestock producers have few options to safely dispose of the carcass. On-farm composting is a low-cost, effective way to dispose of dead animals without contaminating waterways or causing a smelly nuisance.

Two materials are needed for composting: the carcass and a bulking agent. Bulking agents are things like sawdust, wood shavings, and wood mulch. These materials provide a source of carbon to offset the nitrogen from the carcass. They soak up liquid produced during decomposition, regulate airflow through the pile and keep scavengers away. Usually, producers will layer 2 feet of bulking agent on the bottom, the carcass and at least another 2 feet of the bulking material on top of and on the sides of the carcass. A front-end loader is helpful to transport the carcass and bulking agent and create the pile.

Ideally, you will have an enclosed composting facility. A roof keeps the pile from getting too wet and prevents runoff. Sidewalls or fences can protect the decomposing carcass from scavengers and pests. Concrete floors keep compost from entering ground water. The size of the pile will depend on the type of facility size and the type of bulking agent and equipment you use. A typical pile for a large animal (more than 1,000 pounds) should have a height of approximately 6 feet.

Moisture and temperature control is critical to proper composting. If the material is too wet, it could pollute surface or ground water. You can check the moisture by squeezing material in your hand. If it drips, it is too wet. If your palm does not get wet when squeezed, the material is too dry. Temperatures inside the compost pile need to be between 140-160 degrees F. You can purchase a long-stemmed compost thermometer to make sure the pile is reaching the right temperature.

The compost should not emit foul odors at any point in the process. If it starts to smell bad, then something is wrong. You will need to check the pile’s moisture content, temperature, airflow, carbon-to-nitrogen ratio and the amount of material covering the carcass to determine the problem and resolve the issue.

If done correctly, the carcass should decompose within three to six months. You can apply the compost to cropland as fertilizer or reuse it to compost other livestock mortalities.

More information on on-farm dead animal composting is available in the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service publication ID 166: On-farm composting of Animal Mortalities. It is available online at https://afs.ca.uky.edu/files/on-farm_composting_of_animal_mortalities.pdf  or by contacting the Montgomery County Extension office. Source: Steve Higgins, director of environmental compliance for the Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station

 

Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expressions, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability.

 

 

AG News - March 20, 2023

 

Preventing Grass Tetany

As spring approaches and grass begins to grow, grazing livestock may experience a forage-related problem known as grass tetany, grass staggers, lactation tetany, or hypomagnesemia. Grass tetany is a metabolic disorder caused by reduced magnesium (Mg) levels in the animal’s blood. In cattle, it generally affects older, lactating cows but can also be seen in dry cows, young cows, and in rare cases, growing calves. Symptoms often observed include nervousness, lack of coordination, muscular spasms, staggering, convulsions, coma, milk yield decrease, and death. If you suspect cattle are stricken with grass tetany, a veterinarian should be contacted immediately as early treatment can save animals.

Young cool-season grasses and small grains are commonly associated with this disorder. Grass tetany occurs most frequently in the spring, but may occur in the fall and winter when these forages start growing rapidly again or when cereal grain forages are grazed High levels of nitrogen (N) and potassium (K) in the soil can increase the risk of grass tetany because they reduce the availability of magnesium to the animal. Farmers should refrain from placing cattle in a field that has been recently fertilized or has resulted in the disease before. Pastures where a significant amount of manure has been applied often have excessive potassium fertility increasing the risk to grass tetany. A farmer can also increase the legume content in his/her pastures with clover or alfalfa since they have higher magnesium levels to compensate for the lack of it in the new lush grass.

Feeding high magnesium or high “mag” mineral supplements is the preferred method to reduce the occurrence of grass tetany. High “mag” mineral mixes are available at most feed stores and contain higher inclusions of magnesium oxide than other complete mineral mixes. Cattle should begin consuming this high “mag” mineral during the late winter months and into early spring when new plant growth is starting. In late spring once temperatures are consistently above 60ºF, a producer can quit feeding the high “mag” mixtures. High mag mineral does not need to be fed year round, but is not problematic if it is. Free-choice high mag mineral should contain 12 to 15% magnesium from magnesium oxide. Cattle need to consume four ounces of the mineral supplement daily. Magnesium oxide is unpalatable, which can result in low mineral intake. Co-product  feedstuffs such as dried distillers grains, molasses or a flavoring agent is added to the mineral mix to increase palatability.

If free-choice mineral is not a viable option, producers can also mix their own supplement by adding the appropriate amount of magnesium oxide to another palatable feedstuff, i.e. feeding in or with 1 to 2 lbs. of corn or other by-product that provides 20-25 grams of magnesium. For dairy cows, magnesium oxide can be added to the grain mix to provide an intake of 20 g of magnesium per cow per day. Magnesium oxide may be routinely used as a buffer in these grain mixes for dairy cows, so producers should check with their nutritionist to make sure adequate amounts and proper sources are being used to prevent grass tetany.

Besides magnesium oxide, another source of Mg is magnesium sulfate, which is more palatable than magnesium oxide. The downside to feeding magnesium sulfate is it can be an issue where cattle are consuming high sulfate water or other feedstuffs high in sulfur. Producers that are feeding corn co-products (distiller’s grains or corn gluten feed), adding additional sulfur to the diet in the form of magnesium sulfate, or have high sulfur water could create a sulfur toxicity.

Grass tetany blocks provide magnesium similar to that of a mineral supplement. The major disadvantage of this method is that all the animals may not consume an adequate amount of the block. Multiple blocks should be available with one block per ten cows.

The season for grass tetany will be developing as temperatures rise and grasses begin to grow. To reduce health problems and livestock death to this disorder, it is important to provide a quality high “mag” mineral or supplement containing Magnesium oxide.

 

Ways to minimize brown marmorated stink bug damage  

Not only do they stink, as their name suggests, but brown marmorated stink bugs can do a number on crops. No matter the size of your garden or field, you will need to take action to keep this pest at bay.  

Brown marmorated stink bugs have been in the eastern half of the state for some time but have been appearing in an increasing number of Western Kentucky counties since 2019. While they look similar to native stink bugs, this invasive species has a brown, mottled top, a gray belly and white bands on their antennas.   

These stink bugs will feed on all kinds of crops. Some of their favorites include tomatoes, sweet corn, peppers and eggplant. They also attack field crops like soybeans and ornamental trees like redbuds. Their feeding causes crop discoloration, makes the insides of crops corky and most importantly, inedible.  

Due to their ability to quickly decimate crops, home gardeners and commercial growers should take action to control brown marmorated stink bugs as soon as they appear. Because of their strong scent, you likely do not want to smash them. But if you do accidentally crush them, their scent will not attract other stink bugs to your crops. However, you can sweep them off of plants and into buckets of soapy water to kill them in large numbers.  

Homeowners can control the stink bugs when they are small with insecticidal soap or the larger stink bugs with products containing pyrethroids. You can also use physical exclusion methods like row covers or netting to exclude the stink bugs. Timing is everything with row covers as you don’t want to hinder pollination by using them.  

Commercial producers can focus their monitoring efforts along field edges, where the brown marmorated stink bug is most often found infiltrating. Pyrethroid products can also help in these situations.   

Keep a close watch over your crops because you will likely see two generations of stink bugs during the summer. The first generation will appear in early summer and the second shows up in late summer or early fall.  

When the weather gets cooler, you may start finding brown marmorated stink bugs in your home as they seek shelter from the colder temperatures.   Source: Jonathan Larson, UK extension entomologist 

For more information on controlling brown marmorated stink bugs or other pests, contact the Montgomery County office of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service. 

 

Spring Is Coming … So Is Alfalfa Weevil!

The UK Ag Weather Center’s degree day (DD) model for alfalfa weevil indicates that many counties in Kentucky are likely to exceed 190 DD (used as a starting point to begin scouting) by the third week of March. Once temperature accumulations reach 190 DD, growers are advised to look at their alfalfa fields and begin alfalfa weevil larval counts. So far, degree day accumulations for this year are trending close to average for the last 10 years. Scouting: To scout for alfalfa weevil, use the stem sampling method. While walking in a “U” or “Z” pattern through a field, collect 30 alfalfa stems. Carefully cup the top of each stem in one hand and break it off the crown with your other hand; place it bud-end downward in a plastic bucket. Be sure samples are at least 20 feet from the edge of a field so that they are representative of the entire interior of a field. Knock groups of 4 or 5 stems at a time against the inside of the bucket to dislodge the larvae. Count the number of larvae. Measure the length of 10 random alfalfa stems. Use the economic threshold tables in ENTFACT 127 or ENT-17 Extension Publications, available at the Montgomery County Extension Office to determine the need to spray the field for alfalfa weevil. If the field is close to harvest, harvest can be an alternative to spraying, but producers need to watch for damage to the regrowth; there are similar scouting tables for regrowth after the first cutting.

Alfalfa Weevil Update video can be found at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6rLSjmgbj5Y.

 

AG News - March 13, 2023

 

Spring tasks for beef cattle producers

Rural Kentucky pastures are beginning to show off spring calves. For cattle producers, this brings in a new cycle of farm management. Farmers have a lot to remember to ensure healthy calves and to successfully rebreed cows. 

You need to observe spring calves closely and check them at least twice a day and check your first-calf heifers even more than that. Be ready to assist heifers after one to two hours of hard labor or 90 minutes after the ‘water bag’ is visible. Be prepared to dry and warm chilled calves as soon as possible. Remember that each calf should get colostrum within an hour of birth.

It’s also important to begin to identify calves with ear tags or tattoos while they are still young and easy to handle. Record the birthdate and the dam ID. You need to catrate and implant commercial male calves as soon as possible and you should weigh registered calves within the first 24 hours of birth.

Go ahead and separate cows that have calved and increase their feed. Supplemental energy is important for cows receiving hay to prepare them for rebreeding.

A 1,250-pound cow giving about 25 pounds of milk per day will need about 25 pounds of fescue hay and 5 pounds of concentrate daily to maintain good condition.

If you need to go from a condition score of 4 to 5, you will need to add an additional 2 pounds of concentrate to support that cow. Cows must be in good condition to conceive early in the upcoming breeding season.

Avoid feeding hay in excessively muddy areas of your pasture to avoid contaminating cows’ udders. Calf scours is something you need to watch for in the herd. If scours becomes a problem, you will need to move cows that have not calved to a clean pasture.

Calves with scours may become dehydrated and will need fluids to reverse the situation. You can consult your veterinarian and send fecal samples to the UK Veterinary Diagnostic Lab to determine the most effective drug therapy.

You should plan to vaccinate calves for clostridial diseases like blackleg and malignant edema as soon as possible. It’s also a good time to get yearling measurements on bulls and heifers if necessary, for special sales. You may need to increase bulls’ feed to increase their conditioning for breeding or order semen if you plan to use artificial insemination.

For more information on beef cattle management, contact the Montgomery County Cooperative Extension Service. Source: Les Anderson, extension beef specialist.

 

Get your home garden off to a good start

Springtime in Kentucky is the perfect time to get outside and start your home garden. A few tasks will help you have a successful season.

Planning your garden on paper before you begin allows you to visualize the plants you want to grow and when they will be ready to harvest.

Next, select a good gardening site. Plan a site in full sun, relatively level, well-drained, close to a water source and dries quickly from morning dew. You may need to get a soil test to best prepare the soil. Add fertilizer according to soil test results.

Remember to only plan a garden as large as you can easily maintain. Beginning gardeners often overplant and fail because they can’t keep up with the required tasks. You must manage weeds and pests and apply water so your plants will be ready to harvest on time.

A few other important tips:

1. Grow vegetables that will produce the maximum amount of food in your available space.
2. Plant during the correct season for the crop.
3. Choose varieties recommended for Kentucky.
4. Harvest vegetables at their proper stage of maturity. Consider how you will store them if you don’t use them right away.

Consult the University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, Food and Environment’s Home Vegetable Gardening publication ID-128, available online at http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agcomm/pubs/id/id128/id128.pdf.

For more information about gardening or other horticulture topics, contact the Montgomery County Cooperative Extension Service. Source: Rachel Rudolph, UK horticulture extension specialist.

 

TIME TO CONTROL POISON HEMLOCK

Controlling poison hemlock in pastures in early spring could help keep pastures and livestock healthy, according to Dr. J.D. Green, extension weeds specialist at the UK College of Agriculture. Poison hemlock is potentially poisonous to livestock, particularly when animals may graze poison hemlock plants when other forages are limited, or if large quantities of hay containing poison hemlock are consumed by animals. In addition, poison hemlock can crowd out desirable plants in areas where it becomes established.

Introduced to the United States as an ornamental in the 1800s, poison hemlock is widespread throughout most of the state and much of North America. In the past, it was typically found along roadways, abandoned lots, fence rows and other non-cropland sites. But in recent years, its population has exploded across Kentucky, and it is now in many pastures and hayfields.

Poison hemlock can be toxic if ingested by livestock or humans. Cattle, goats and horses are considered to be the most susceptible animals but other animals can consume it. If ingested, poisoning symptoms appear within 30 minutes to two hours, depending on several factors including the animal species and quantity consumed. Lethal doses for cattle range between 0.2 and 0.5 percent of the animal’s weight. Poisoning symptoms include nervousness, trembling, muscle weakness, loss of coordination, pupil dilation, coma and eventually death from respiratory failure. If ingested by a pregnant animal, it can cause fetal deformities.

The best time of the year to effectively control poison hemlock using herbicides is in the early spring when plants are smaller and in the rosette growth stage, particularly when applying herbicides that contain 2,4-D. In the rosette growth stage, plants can be more difficult to find since poison hemlock is growing close to the ground, but producers can easily recognize it in fields due to its parsley-like leaves that are shiny green and triangular. Producers should look in field areas where the plant was present last year; larger plants may be up to 12 to 18 inches tall. When full grown, this invasive, noxious weed can reach 6 to 8 feet tall.

Poison hemlock is often confused with Queen Anne's lace, which also is called wild carrot and is a non-toxic weed. Both plants produce leaves and clusters of small, white flowers that look similar. However, poison hemlock has smooth stems with purple spots throughout while Queen Anne's lace has hair along its stem and leaf bases. During poison hemlock’s peak bloom period in late May and early June; Queen Anne's lace is just beginning active growth for the season.

If producers find poison hemlock later in the season, they should mow it over before it flowers to prevent further seed production. If it is found while making hay, Green recommends mowing around the plant to keep it out of the animals’ food supply.

 

AG News - March 6, 2023

 

All-weather surfaces can improve livestock mobility 

As an attentive livestock producer, you have probably noticed your animals tend to follow the same paths to get food and water. Over time, these well-traveled paths start to lose their vegetation and erode the topsoil, particularly if they endure heavy traffic from large animals. Erosion not only wears away your topsoil, but it makes it difficult for livestock to continue to effortlessly move along these paths. In wet weather, these paths get slick and muddy and can become treacherous for animals.  

You can help your animals move along these paths by installing all-weather surfaces, such as mechanical concrete. Mechanical concrete uses tires, geotextile fabric and dense-grade aggregate stone to create a sturdy surface for animals to travel. 

Use a backhoe or trackhoe with a 36-inch bucket to create an 8-inch-deep trench down the well-traveled path and cover the trench with nonwoven geotextile fabric. The fabric provides drainage, friction and overall path stability. Next, remove the sidewalls of the tires leaving the tread. Semitruck tires are the best size for this project. Once you install the tires in the path, cover them with dense-grade aggregate rock.  

This pathway should last for many years and will allow your animals to use less energy moving around your farm.  Source: Steve Higgins, CAFE director of environmental compliance.

You can get more information about installing these all-weather surfaces in the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension publication AEN 165: Improving Cow Paths. It is available online at http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agcomm/pubs/AEN/AEN165/AEN165.pdf or by contacting the Montgomery County Extension office. 

 

Bugs and other things that make you itch

People generally don’t like bugs. In fairness, this feeling isn’t without cause. Throughout history, we have consistently dealt with insects and their relatives that like to use us as a food source. Phrases like “sleep tight, don’t let the bed bugs bite” are rooted in a time when we had to worry about being bitten by insects even while we slept. As a result, our bodies and minds are wired to be on the lookout for pests that want to bite us. Sometimes, though, the cause of an itch isn’t a bug at all. Here is a sampling of pests and other conditions that cause itches.

Bed bugs: As the name implies, these pests will take up residence in your bed or any other areas where you sleep or spend considerable amounts of time. They are relatively quick feeders, only taking 5-10 minutes for a meal before disappearing into nearby cracks and crevices. Everyone reacts differently to a bed bug bite, but the most common reaction is an itchy raised bump that resembles a mosquito bite. You can learn more about bed bugs through the University of Kentucky Entfact 636 which is available online at https://entomology.ca.uky.edu/ef636. If you suspect you have a bed bug infestation, contact a pest control professional.

Fleas: These tiny, blood suckers often end up in homes after hitching a ride on pets. The adults are the ones responsible for the itchy bites that can appear on people and pets. Adult fleas are amazing jumpers and live on their host. But they have a hard time sticking to humans, because we don’t have enough hair. Often, the larvae live in animal bedding and feed on the feces of their parents.

Lice: Humans can encounter head, body and pubic lice. Head lice are the most common and are the ones that people often think of, especially with school-age children. Lice have modified legs that help them hang on to human hairs, where they live and feed. They do not fly, jump or do a lot of crawling in the environment.

Mosquitoes: Mosquitoes are not normally an issue in the winter months, but the females will land on humans in the summer to take a blood meal. Their saliva usually induces an itchy red welt on the skin. Larvae live in water and don’t feed on humans.

Chiggers: Another classic summer foe, chiggers are immature mites that will partially digest skin cells and slurp them up for nutrition. They do not burrow into the skin but do insert a long tube into our bodies. Their digestive enzymes and tube can induce a maddening itch.

Scabies: Unlike chiggers, scabies mites actually live inside of the body. Scabies can induce pimple-like pustules on the skin and may leave behind noticeable “tunnels” in the skin when a person has an infestation. Scabies tend to be transmitted by long-term skin contact and can be transmitted between family members or sexual partners. Only a dermatologist can help you identify and treat a scabies problem. Most entomologists or county extension agents will not have a powerful enough microscope to identify them.

Invisible Itches: Sometimes people may experience sensations that feel like insects crawling on them or that something is biting them, but they find no evidence of pests. These “invisible itches” can be very tricky. Sometimes people may be dealing with transient issues involving insects like thrips that can prod the skin or even problems with fowl mites that have left a recently abandoned bird nest. You might be dealing with sensations that resemble a bug problem but are actually caused by something else. This time of year, one primary cause of invisible itches is dry skin. In addition, some medications can produce side effects that mirror the sensations of insects, as can problems with unmanaged diabetes, lupus or arthritis, among others. In other cases, homes can become contaminated with irritants like fiberglass or paper shards. Chemicals can also cause irritation similar to a bug bite. It is important to keep an open mind when you experience these kinds of symptoms and to consider other possible sources that don’t have six or more legs.

If your skin itches, it is best to consult your dermatologist or primary care provider. Home remedies such as topical anti-inch creams, oatmeal baths, witch hazel and over-the-counter allergy medications may provide some relief. Sources: Jonathan Larson and Zachary DeVries, UK entomologists.

More information on bug identification is available at the Montgomery County office of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service.

 

DECEASED ANIMAL REMOVAL

If you need to have dead farm animals removed from your Montgomery County Farm, Call Mike Hall at 606-359-4407. This program is sponsored by the Montgomery County Fiscal Court with partial funding from the Governor’s Office of Agriculture Policy and approved by the Montgomery County Agriculture Development Council.

 

 

 

 

 

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